By Jeff Nelson
The first ensembles on display in the exhibition give a good example of the unique materials used in many of his designs; they’re made of ostrich feathers, glass medical slides, and razor-clam shells.
Chances are, the name Alexander McQueen means nothing to most Minnesotans.
Unless you’re like me (i.e. you subscribe to Vogue, easily identify designers, and follow fashion trends), you probably wouldn’t be familiar with this British designer and his acclaimed work—from tailoring on London’s Savile Row and spearheading French favorite Givenchy for five years to launching his own high-end line. In his 19-year career, McQueen became a style icon, dressing everyone from Gisele Bündchen to Björk before taking his life last year. While the designer’s early passing is a tragedy, those in the industry believe McQueen has impacted the fashion world for years to come.
One way his legacy lives on is through Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, a special exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
This past weekend, I was in New York visiting a friend and only had one item on my agenda: to see this exhibit. I wasn’t the only one craving a glimpse of McQueen’s couture, though. Savage Beauty opened in May and has proved to be more popular than expected—earlier this month it was announced the museum would be extending the exhibition an entire week due to high demand. (Translation: More than half a million have visited so far.) Thankfully, I secured spots on the VIP list before I left the Twin Cities, and we were able to bypass the sea of museum-goers that snaked around most of the second floor.
The exhibition hall is arranged into six themed galleries displaying nearly 200 of McQueen’s most avant-garde ensembles and accessories. Striking silhouettes, insane attention to detail, over-the-top (and, let’s be honest, completely impractical) designs, and unique materials (duck feathers, porcupine quills, and even human hair) confirm just how cutting-edge McQueen was—and why he stood out in the fashion world.
“When you see a woman wearing McQueen, there’s a certain hardness to the clothes that make her look powerful,” McQueen said in a 2005 The Guardian story. “It kind of fends people off.” The jacket to the right is an excellent example of McQueen’s precise work in tailoring.
To be blunt, this collection of clothes is breathtaking. If you’re one to salivate over designer duds, it’s a must-see—from the precise tailoring on display in “The Romantic Mind” and the dark sophistication of the “Romantic Gothic” gallery, to the peculiar pieces in the “Cabinet of Curiosities” and the futuristic ensembles of “Romantic Naturalism.”
This “casket” in the “Romantic Gothic” gallery features pieces from McQueen’s final, posthumous collection, unofficially known as Angels and Demons.
Savage Beauty is much more than the fashion, though. The exhibition is rounded out with insightful quotes by McQueen; music and sound effects—think strings and howling wolves—to set the mood; and video, including a hologram of Kate Moss in a billowing organza gown, as well as runway show footage. (Just FYI: McQueen’s runway shows were not run-of-the-mill. Each presentation was an inspired artistic performance. See what I mean here.)
If you can make it to Manhattan by August 7, head to the Met: You won’t be disappointed. If you canR
17;t but want a piece of the record-breaking exhibit, buy the book from the Met’s online store or off Amazon—it’ll make a great addition to your coffee table lit.
Wanting to wear some McQueen threads? The man behind the label may be gone, but his line is living on: Sarah Burton, former head of womenwear design, took over as creative director and appears to be doing just fine (she designed Kate Middleton’s wedding dress). Head to Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, or OPM for McQueen attire and accessories.
A favorite from the “Romantic Naturalism” gallery-and part of the last collection released while McQueen was alive-this “Jellyfish” ensemble (complete with iridescent enamel paillette-adorned dress, leggings, and signature “armadillo” boots) was actually worn by Lady Gaga in her award-winning “Bad Romance” video.
Photos: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce
