I didn’t get to go to the James Beard Awards this weekend, but Steve Marsh and I did get to sneaky snack at a practice dinner at Haute Dish on Sunday night. Count me in the stoked column.

While I don’t believe in making major proclamations based on preview dinners, and I certainly don’t think you should crown some place as a Best New anything three whole months before they’ve served a plate, I will say: boy’s got some chops, we had some pretty good eats.

Steak & Eggs: steak tartare, egg in a hole, bloody mary oyster shooter. Chance for a perfect bite here: runny yolk, toasty brioche, softly raw beef.

Snail & Ham Potpie: spring lettuce broth, puff pastry. It’s my opinion that snails need to be used more often, especially like this.

General Tso’s Sweetbreads: with foie fried rice. Easily the winner of the night, it was a cracking fun dish without being too gimmicky. I don’t want to gush about the foie fried rice, so I’ll just say that Steve decided it was like playing a Nintendo game. Nudge, nudge.

Creamed Peas on Toast: smoked sturgeon, morels, pecorino, spring herbs. Yes, it was a big fat bite of spring.

Tater Tot Haute Dish: short ribs, baby green beans, porcini bechamel, “tots”: There is going to be so much love written for these “tots”.

Duck in a Can: Martin Picard style. Do it.

Of course the beer list is deep and interesting, but I was genuinely happy while sipping a Sazerac and perusing the lengthy bourbon list. Indeed.

Open to everyone on Tuesday. For realz.