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November 10, 2009, 11:59 AM

The Feast: Sides

Stephanie March
mashed-potatoes-rs-524061-l.jpgThe countdown has begun. It's just over two weeks to Thanksgiving and you've got creamed corn on the brain, dontcha? Let's face it, turkey shmurkey, it's all about the sides.

First, let's say this: the bird is important and you should be wrangling one of Pat's from Wild Acres if you know what's what. But past that, everyone expects the bird. With a few flavor, texture, and moisture factors in play, it's the same thing. It's turkey. Let's move on.

Where you can really shine, where the pretty meets the plate, are the dishes that dance around the table. They are your medium of expression, they are your generational contribution, they are (like a good can of Cream o' Mushroom soup) a binder for the table. The perfect offering of sides will be constructed with a zen approach—balancing bowls of innovation that keep it exciting, against bowls of nostalgia that nurture the roots.

This is how I'll spend my free time for the next two weeks, pulling recipes and positioning bowls, substituting veg, quantifying potatoes, and questioning comfort zones. There is no sense even glancing at the creamed corn, it is an inalienable right. Mashed potatoes will be present, but will they contain goat cheese? Last year's fennel slaw was a hit. Wasn't it? Will there be a greater acceptance of the Brussels sprouts with more bacon? The cranberries grace two out of the 20 eaters' plates, will there be outrage if they're omitted? This is the year to tackle turnips, I'm sure of it. 

I've been cruising through the glossies and internets for inspiration. Just remember that popcorn, toast, and jellybeans don't count.

Food & Wine has a gratin slideshow. The cauliflower gratin with manchego and almond sauce looks good.

Gourmet (sigh) has put up an Editors' Picks slideshow, my pick is the roasted Japanese sweet potato with scallion butter.

Martha Stewart, though putting up 53 side recipes, didn't trip too many triggers. Perhaps the chestnuts in soy caramel.

Loved the Bon Appetit menu plan generator. I can see doing a version of the thyme roasted apples and onions.

Thank you Saveur for the Ultimate Guide. Yes, I think I will hash some turnips

Food Network gives us 50 mashed potatoes. Shut up, you know there will be applause for bacon cheddar mashed po.

CHOW goes from "beginners" to "Charlie Palmer" and gives over his cornbread and oyster stuffing.

And clearly to be served on-high at my table, the Oceanaire creamed corn.

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