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« A Two-Gyro Week | Main | Fish, Reluctantly »
You can smell it on the air. The smell comes from the snap of the
frigid grip of this wicked winter. It is the wafting smell of mud; it
is the smell of victory. I'm just letting you know that I've already begun planning a crawfish boil and digging the pit for a hog smoke and bonfire dinner in which we have various things on spits. This is how I get through my namesake month. And now I have been delivered another nugget of inspiration, a reason to look forward: Tour de Farm. It seems that the unsinkable Scott Pampuch has gathered his pasture-lovin' buddies (JD, Lenny, Mike Phillips, and Scott Graden) for a little outdoor dining, farm-style. Can you imagine it? Close your eyes, and picture yourself in a pasture with sweet and mellow grasses underfoot, sitting at a long table. Gentle breeze; bare arms; sociable people with above-average intelligence and manners; and a finely crafted, multi-course dinner: each plate a testament to fresh ingredients and an homage to the local farm. It is our local version of Outstanding in the Field, and we deserve it. Do you really need more to get you through this slushy month? I'm on board. Reservations are limited to seventy-five people per event, and the cost is $85 per person, all inclusive. A small price to banish despair. The photo above was from the Outstanding in the Field dinner at Cedar Summit Farm last August.
Advertisement CommentsPost a commentWe do not moderate comments. However, mspmag.com will remove comments if they contain profanity, offensive content, and/or overt sales pitches. « Previous | Main | Next » |
Ms. March,
Does anyone review and edit your submissions, or are you out there on your own?
I ask as I am trying to comprehend how your condescending comments continue to turn up in print. How do you see a comments such as "sociable people with above-average intelligence and manners" as not offensive? Are you presuming that anyone who can pay $85 per person for a purported "finely crafted, multi-course dinner" must be of above-average intelligence and manners? It almost seems you are saying that Money = Class? Or maybe you are saying that if my intelligence and manners do not meet your standards, that I am not welcome to attend? I wonder if the chefs involved agree with you.
As a former long-time subscriber of MSP Magazine, and as someone who still finds value in some of the magazine's content, it's comments such as yours that continue to keep me away. Why should I pay money to a publication that continually makes me feel unwanted? I may not live "West of the River", but I represent the demographic you and your magazine should be attracting, and you are not.
Maybe you were making an attempt at humor. If that's the case, you are missing the mark. Leave the humor to someone else and stick to what you are purportedly best at.
Posted by: Scott on March 4, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Mr. Scott,
Come down off the ledge. It's about the dream of a potentially perfect meal, on a potentially perfect summer night, with potentially perfect dining companions. I'm sorry that you can't see yourself at that table.
Ms. March
Posted by: steph on March 4, 2009 at 1:43 PM
Let's not kid ourselves. In addition to all the aforementioned qualities, we must add Volvos and Subarus, Birkenstocks, braggadocio about "my" CSA ("Kohlrabi is really versatile"), composting tips, St. Paul worship ("it reminds me of a simpler time"), and condemnatory rabble-rousing about the various Parasole restaurants ("so corporate"). The soup will be cold, the salad warm, the bugs biting, the patchouli nauseating. Everyone will be trying to sit next to Zimmern ("refreshingly corporate").
I'll be at Morton's, unless there's a foie gras course.
Posted by: Adam Platt on March 4, 2009 at 2:22 PM
Steph, thanks for writting about this so quickly, we all appreciate the ink. This event is on a Sunday, it is about a relaxing evening celebrating what we do on a daily basis here in our restaurants, we celebrate and recognize the family farm. This event is not about social class, what you drive, or what you wear. I know some of these comments are tongue and cheek above, but hey Adam, if you want to go to Mortons those nights, that is great, we are not here to judge you about your choices. Have a great dinner.
Posted by: Scott on March 4, 2009 at 4:04 PM
Ms. March:
1. It does sound like a perfect dinner 2. I don't want to eat with anyone who doesn't have a sense of humor (inside or outside) 3. Nor do I want to eat with anyone who doesn't watch tv, but that's another story 4. For the record, I am east of the river.
Ms.Terri
Eastside out
Posted by: Terri on March 4, 2009 at 6:11 PM
I'm not sure if I even understand the previous exchanges, but let me clarify a little bit of what we have discussed in our joint planning session a week or ago.
First of all, the chefs and their respective restaurants are not getting paid for their time and contributions. At best, we will have the majority of our out of pocket expenses covered, but that is it. The intention is to further connect people with the source of the food they eat. It's more of an educational experience and certainly not some sort of fete galante. The $85 covers not only all of the food and beverage but also the tax and gratuity. For four or five courses that is an incredible value especially in light of the level of quality that we are pursuing. As an example, Outstanding in the Field typically charges $130 to $150 per head.
In addition, Scott has organized these events because he believes in the principles to which many of us fellow chefs adhere. That is, he believes in truth and purity when it comes to the food we eat, and he has respect for the land and for the people who have chosen to farm it. It is his intention, as it is for all of us involved, to bring some measure of support to these farmers during very difficult economic times.
The logistical difficulties involved in presenting these events are numerous. Rental equipment has to be secured including tables, chairs, linens, silverware, glassware, tents, cooking utensils, heat sources , etc., etc., as well as proper facilities management and disposal issues that need to be organized and accommodated. In addition the sites need to be assessed and made appropriate for the influx of guests and their vehicles, and the foodstuffs need to be transported in a safe, sanitary and efficient manner and held in the same manner until ready for preparation. Staffing needs to be addressed, and the staff need to be trained and prepared for service. Public relations and promotional materials need to be decided upon and dispersed to the various media outlets. The money needs to be handled and dispersed in a fully transparent and legal fashion including the various tax payments. Finally, menus need to be written and executed in a timely fashion.
If someone wants to take a shot at these events and be critical of them, that's fine. It's a free country (sort of), but I for one think that Scott deserves a lot of appreciation for the efforts he has made on behalf of everyone. Please give him and us a chance in the spirit of creating a better world to do something positive in a time when positive acts seem to be few and far between.
Posted by: Lenny Russo on March 4, 2009 at 10:27 PM
Thank You Lenny, for bringing it all back into perspective and showing what really = class.
SM
Posted by: Stephanie March on March 5, 2009 at 10:50 AM
Steph, if you think tossing some sycophancy at Lenny is going to get you off the hook for trashing the folks, the salt of the earth, you're kidding yourself. If we can hire us some drifters with some wheels, we're coming out to Wayzata and force-feeding you chipped beef at the town dump.
Farm to table!
Posted by: adam Platt on March 5, 2009 at 11:38 PM
I am looking forward to these events. My husband and I live in rural Cannon Falls. We aren't "wealthy" or "upper-class". We are trying to be more conscious about where our food comes from and using/eating that food well. I don't think that is just something for people "with money" or people who come from a certain group. I think it is something we all should be more interested in learning about. Sure, the events will cost some money, but it is something very unique and memorable. Ms. March's comments may not have been the best, I agree. I do think it would be a shame to miss out on something that should be a wonderful experience because you feel you have been slighted. If nothing else, if you do feel that way, this would be the opportunity to show Ms. March how wrong her comments were.
Posted by: Jessica on March 8, 2009 at 2:35 PM
Wow, I happened to stumble on this discussion, and am surprised at the level of heat in some of the comments! When I read the original piece (before I read the comments), I thought that the bit about "above-average intelligence" was a sort of nod to Garrison Keillor's portrayal of the people of Lake Wobegone, where "all the children are above average" etc. Kind of a Minnesota in-joke. I sure did not get my undies in a bundle about any perceived class-bashing.
It's a bummer when local chefs try to do something like this--which sounds interesting and like a helluva lot of work for them that will be largely uncompensated--and it turns into a political mudfest.
Posted by: Teresa M on March 11, 2009 at 4:45 PM
Scott does deserve a round of applause for this new series of dinners down on the farm. A correction to one of the comments above re ticket cost for Outstanding In The Field events-tickets are $180.-220. per person. Tour de Farm tickets are considerably less at $85. per person. Indeed a bargain these days for a 4-5 course dinner with wine. For even less expensive, down on the farm events, you may wish to consider the offerings of Slow Food Minnesota (a registered not-for-profit org.). Their web site is: www.slowfoodmn.org They are one of the fore runners in the State of Minnesota of this type of event. Slow Food MN has been doing them for nearly 11 years and the majority of their events are at considerably less and generally sold-out.
I wish Tour de Farm every success. The more the public is introduced and exposed to our hard working small family farmers; the better. My main concern is where does that $85. per plate go. I would hope that the farmers receive a substantial portion of all proceeds. I do understand that the chef's involved are contributing their services and talents. And I am also aware that such events require many other expenditures. It is my understanding that Tour de Farm is not registered as a non-profit in the state.
When we can see a full accounting of the proceeds I will personally offer my heartfelt blessing and support.
Ronald L. Huff, CCC
Founder/Chairman Slow Food Minnesota
Posted by: Ronald L. Huff on March 21, 2009 at 9:46 AM
To Ron Huff:
Ron, you should really be ashamed of yourself especially in view of the fact that all of us have given so freely of our time to help promote Slow Food. In fact, I hosted a Slow Food Presidium Dinner at Heartland in honor of Winona LaDuke at considerable personal expense. We had to shut our restaurant for the evening and absorb the labor, linen and utility costs for that event. Scott and I participated in the one that Mike hosted at Craftsman, also at considerable expense. I even contributed china so that you wouldn't need to rent any. Where do you come off questioning our sincerity just because we are not a 501c3 nonprofit corporation? You have a lot of nerve accusing us of lining our pockets at the expense of our farmers. It will be a cold day in hell when I next agree to support your efforts.
Let me ask you something? How much do you get paid to lead the local Slow Food Chapter? How much does Cedar Summit Farm pay you to be their so called "corporate chef"? How about a full accounting of your records? I have never asked for a dime in personal compensation from you or from Cedar Summit or from any other farm that I have agreed to assist. The only thing I have ever asked for was partial compensation for material costs. You owe each of us an apology for the inferred slander you just slung. Talk about throwing rocks while living in a glass house. You may prance around in your fancy duds while you toss back donated wine and stuff yourself with donated food prepared by donated labor at your so called nonprofit events, but I have never seen you lift a finger to perform one bit of manual labor in support of Slow Food. As far I'm concerned, you are a lousy hypocrite who doesn't deserve to head the local Slow Food Chapter. What exactly has your chapter done to help promote my business? As far as I can recall, you have never even dined at my restaurant.
Perhaps you should go back and read the posting I left here previously. I said that the chefs will at best receive compensation for their out of pocket expenses. The rest of the proceeds go to the farm or to other material expenses that the farm and the event planners will incur in putting on these events. Is my word not good enough for you? So you need to see an accounting of everything before you will believe that we are working hard to help our farmers remain profitable? Apparently, your previous experiences with us account for nothing. Go screw yourself. If you don't want to come to the events, don't come. We will all be better off without you.
Posted by: Lenny Russo on March 24, 2009 at 11:23 PM
If anyone ever cares to write a treatise on “how to bait a chef”, look no further than the MSPmag blogs. There’s enough here to keep my friends and I ranting for days what with all the arrogance, resentment and finger-pointing.
I was raised a classist, which means that I was taught to equate wealth with greed and bad intentions. When I moved up here and began working in restaurants, I sought out higher-end joints that would allow me a chance to rub elbows with people who had a lot of money. I believed in learning from the enemy. Y’know what I found out? There isn’t a bank account, zipcode or economic theory anywhere that has a monopoly on respect for good food, good soil, wild places, and clean water.
The Tour de Farm project that Steph has been so gracious as to spotlight in her blog is a heartfelt effort by me and my friends to prepare an outdoor table of the best food each of our respective farms is able to share with anyone who wants to come. The whole point is to introduce groups of people that normally would not have recourse to enjoy one another’s company and get them to share a few things over outdoor cuisine. If that involves said inane chatter about the gas mileage on the Volvo or whether or not the co-op was able to get ramps this year, who cares? Chefs are particularly good at compartmentalizing those conversations. (How do you think we know who the cold station cook slept with last night or that his raging hangover prevented him from prepping the coconut sauce that the sauté cook has whipping in the blender?) Point is, is the job getting done? Is the food going out hot and tasty? Are farmers meeting the people who both prepare and enjoy the food they’ve busted their asses to raise in an ethical way, sacrificing ease, acreage and maximum profit? Are cooks and doctors and machinists and hockey moms who love this food getting an opportunity to treat themselves to a night out and truly feel the origin of the evening’s dinner? Is the evening cost-prohibitive for anyone?
I like Adam Platt and I’ve had some great conversations with him over the years. If he feels his role in these blog entries is to be the resident gadfly, reminding everyone to examine their real motivations for taking part in the Tour de Farm, so be it. Perhaps he too is just another American like myself, wading through the detritus of the current market collapse and its greedy origins, scraping to take stock of our integrity.
Let’s just make sure this is going to be about bringing people together. If I could be so bold as to speak for mis hermanos, that’s all any of us have tried to do in each of our restaurants. The way I see it, tables where the varied fabrics of our country can share anything are in short supply these days. My friend Tim and I, at the Strip Club Meat and Fish, plan on spending the rest of our career together creating these environments whether they’re in a pasture, behind a bar, or in a long, narrow room in east St. Paul. Wherever they are, we’ll be serving food mindfully produced by the people who share your watershed.
Oh, and Ron, there’s nothing I can add to the response tapped out by the man I consider the most intelligent and soulful cook in the Upper Midwest. So I won’t. Thanks, Lenny. Thanks, Farmers. Thanks, Scott and thanks, Steph.
Posted by: JD Fratzke on March 25, 2009 at 12:10 PM
March 29, 2009
TO: Chef Lenny Russo,
I am truly sorry that you misubderstood my original post. It was not intended as a condemnation of you or any one at Tour de Farm. In fact all of you are to be commended for your time, talent, and energy that each of you are giving and have given so FREELY of for many years.
Chef you have indeed, as well as many others, been very supportive of Slow Food Minnesota, as well as to Slow Food in general. I am truly greatful for yours and the support of numerous others.
My last sentence in the post was meant more as a musing/question. I do aplogize for not being more clear; but make no apologies for being concerned that the farmers in question be fairly compensated for their work and product. Perhaps if this had been more clearly stated on the Tour de Farm web site neither of us would have been blogging here.
For your information I have never accepted, nor been paid, a single penny for my nearly eleven years of work with Slow Food Minnesota. Indeed I purchase-at full member price- tickets to each and every Slow Food event out of my own pocket. I also do not accept any monies from Slow Food Mn for ANY travels. As for my helping the Minars I am paid with respect and love, and a small amount for my mileage when I act on their behalf.
I can not say that I am not pained by this discussion. But in some small way I hope it will ease your feelings. I have nothing but respect and great admiration for all that you and that many others have done throughout these many years. My very best to you, to the whole crew at Tour de Farm. May you and the new project be an overwhelming success.
Ron Huff,
Founder/Chairman Slow Food Minnesota
Posted by: Ronald L. Huff on March 29, 2009 at 7:31 PM
In reply to Ron Huff:
First of all, Ron, you really don't seem to understand that questioning our motives and intentions, particularly in a public forum instead of just picking up the phone, is insulting and beneath contempt. It is especially contemptible given the fact that we have so generously given of our time and resources over the years to many causes including the one that you chair. So your backhanded apology remains insufficient because it isn't really an apology. You still insist you did nothing wrong in questioning whether or not we are using our farmers as a front to line our pockets.
I can't fully speak for my peers, but at Heartland we practice fair trade. To do so, means that we have to leave some money on the table on a daily basis. To suggest that we might somehow be less than sincere and above board in support of our farmers deserves the kind of response you received. You have questioned our integrity, and in so doing have impugned our reputations. So I am not the one who is misunderstanding things here. It is you.
By the way, I know you don't accept any cash payments for your efforts, but I just wanted you to feel what it was like to have the shoe on the other foot. It pinched a little, didn't it?
So, Ron, when you are willing to admit publicly that you acted like a jackass, I will be more than willing to accept your apology and let bygones be bygones. Until then I have nothing left to say to you.
Posted by: Lenny Russo on March 30, 2009 at 4:50 AM
geez Lenny thats kinda harsh...Ron is a very sweet sensitive old guy who I think is very sincere and giving.
cut him some slack eh....?
Posted by: dandy dan on May 28, 2009 at 10:00 PM
All the hullabalu aside...Mike Philips served pure gold yesterday at the first Tour de Farm.
Despite the weather, the barn was full, the conversations were warm and the faces were smiling.
The scenery at Hidden Stream Farm was beautiful and Eric and Lisa Klein were gracious hosts.
I believe Chef Pampuch has created something not short of brilliant and executed it with flare and panache. I am actually sad for anyone that was not there to experience this incredible event and even more impressive local food.
Thank you Tour de Farm!!
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