We have a white board in our office where we keep track of
all the new restaurant openings planned for the coming months. The list is down
to nearly nothing, alas. Now, January and February are not ideal times to open
restaurants under any circumstances, but the paucity of planned openings is probably the first evidence that the economic slowdown has
stopped the flow of capital and risk-taking in the local food biz. (I should
allow for the odd restaurateur who fails to give any advance notice of his
venture, strangely common in this biz.)
Speaking of puzzlements, Harvey McLain's (Turtle Bread Co.) Tosca (3421 W. 44th St., Mpls., 612-924-6013) has finally opened next to the original TBC on 44th St. This restaurant has literally been years in the making; the fits and starts and unrequited promises became so pervasive that I'm not sure anyone really expected Harvey to ever open, and surely not on the cusp of the most massive economic downturn since the Depression.
There was no advance announcement, nor has the TBC website
been updated to reflect Tosca's existence, nor has a menu been circulated. We
can tell you that Landon Schoenfeld, the peripatetic chef made prominent for
his mustard fight at Bulldog Northeast, is in the kitchen. Tosca is currently
only open for counter-service breakfast and lunch--what sounds like a modestly
elaborated version of Turtle Bread--salads, sandwiches, etc. Dinner, with table
service, is to come in January (for now, food is ordered at the Turtle Bread counter and brought to a table in the bakery, so don't expect a lot of flourishes). But based on McLain's high standards and
Schoenfeld's obvious talent, it should be a winning addition to a neighborhood
that will support good food.
The other major opening of the winter is likely to be Bradstreet Craftshouse at the Graves 601 Hotel, planned for late January. This upscale eatery and lounge will be one of the most innovative entrants of 2009, focused on upmarket small plates and artisanal mixology. The restaurant carries a cumbersome concept--it's an homage to John Bradstreet, once the William Morris of Minneapolis, who designed furnishings and interiors (including those of the Minneapolis Grain Exchange), had a storefront gallery/workshop/salon downtown, and is regarded as one of the great innovators of the Arts & Crafts movement.
Graves' President Ben Graves has long been enamored with Bradstreet's work and is attempting to meld Bradstreet's ethos in a modern design environment and trendy restaurant/lounge concept that is so multi-layered it's impossible to explain concisely. Given the culinary pedigree at the Graves and Cosmos, it's hard not to expect great things, no matter how complex the undertaking.
And speaking of the economy, Ben Graves told me that Cosmos,
the best restaurant in town that I thought nobody went to, is having the best
year in its history and that 80 percent of its dinner clientele is local. So
there.








Why not take this opportunity to expand MSP Mag's coverage to other food/bev openings in MN, such as the local Lift Bridge Brewery? http://blog.liftbridgebrewery.com/
I decided it was in the top 3 to-do's on returning home to the Cities for Thanksgiving. The Drifter Pale Ale is a great brew that rivals many of the high-caliber micros I'm used to from Colorado!
My top 3 to do's:
1) Have the cappelletti appetizer and entrée of half cannelloni with champagne chicken in white sauce at North Hudson's Mama Maria's Restaurant,
2) Grab a Lift Bridge Brew at Stillwater's Mad Capper,
3) Nosh on the beef-jerky-in-a-bar treat at Brine's Bar. Seriously, nothing beats it.
Nonetheless, props to the foodie coverage and please continue these great blogs!
Posted by: Micki Adams-Sievwright on December 3, 2008 at 6:13 PM