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Ikea is a wondrous place. Really, it is.
I spent some high-quality hours there last week as my daughter and I shopped for her future dorm room. But all I could think about was, "What if I lived in a tiny apartment again? Would I do this to my kitchen? Or this?" I love my kitchen, but I'm a bit of a kitchen slut . . . always looking for the next best trick. You store your knives on a magnetic strip? I'm gonna store MY knives like that!
Anywho . . . After battling with the girl over bedspeads and whether or not I should be purchasing a bottle opener for her, I was a little exhausted.
But we made one more stop at Cantina #1! While Dave Ryan was conducting some sort of dance competition in the rotunda, the kiddos and I ascended to MOA's newest theme restaurant from the relaxed guys at Corona beer.
The place is cavernous and unexpectedly spare. Don't get me wrong, there are thatched huts and surfboards and a conveniently located gift shop selling all sorts of Corona-ware at the entrance, but the walls themselves are the color of sand, and the huts and bamboo are more accents than fantasyland. Keeping with their theme, it's all very laid-back and relaxed. Which can be good if you're sick of the hectic MOA vibe.
And yet, it can be bad if you're in need. I'm generally forgiving during that first month of operation, but here's a small tip: Don't pass out a coloring place mat to a five-year-old with no crayons. Because when the tired mommy has to make her way back to the podium, only to find out that the crayons aren't arriving until 3 p.m., I'm not so relaxed. (Plus, you're in the MALL of FREAKIN' AMERICA! Don't you think someone might be able to find some crayons within fifty feet of your front door?)
We sat at a big booth and downed the complimentary chips and salsa, ordering some guac with the next basket. It came in a fried tortilla "bowl" but was no more than maybe a cup of guac. Sadly, there was no flavor, and I wondered if I was supposed to mix in the other ingredients on the plate myself.
The fiver got a quesadilla, to which we added chicken. The teens each ordered a different torta, and I had the chicken diablo. My dish was fine, the chicken was tender, but with a name like diablo, don't you think it should carry a little heat? My Michelada was spicier. The teens each liked their sandwich, but they were the same sandwich. When I asked the server about the difference between the Original Torta and the Fajita Torta, she had to check with the kitchen: The difference is how the chicken is prepared: One has shredded chicken, the other has chicken breast. Well, they both had shredded and breast on each sandwich. Whatever. They ate it; it was good. The best dish on the table was the fiver's quesadilla, which we all kept snatching bites of while he was trying to color in his place mat with a manky pen from the far reaches of my purse.
All in all, it's better than freaky singing apes. I'll give them another shot.
Rumors are swirling in the local steak house biz as the town’s beef barons prepare for an onslaught of hungry Republicans but otherwise contemplate a weak economy, reduced corporate spending, and skyrocketing beef and commodity prices.
—Morton’s recently and inexplicably cut ties with its longtime GM Kathleen Wagner and is operating with temporary bosses shuttling in from other cities.
—Kozy’s is expecting a windfall of new dinner business after the Westin at the Galleria opens in August.
—There are rumors that a prominent downtown steak house will close after the GOP convention.
—Despite published comments to the contrary, it does appear, based on numerous conversations with industry insiders, that Randy Norman, whose name hangs over the door at r. Norman’s, is no longer running the restaurant.
Why would a restaurant oust the guy it was named after? It’s impossible to know for sure, but let’s start with some background, and we can make an educated guess: Norman and partner David Koch opened the über-popular Bellanotte following Norman’s tenure as opening general manager of Capital Grill. Koch had a nightclub background, Norman a restaurant background, but Bellanote thrives as a club, not a restaurant. Its expensive Italian fare is mere fuel for drinking and partying.
Though Bellanote was a singular experience unequaled in town, r. Norman’s entered a deep and competitive steak house game downtown, populated by successful players with loyal clientele. The steak house habitué has high expectations and pays to see those expectations met. r. Norman’s is a strikingly attractive restaurant, but its recipes are not up to the caliber of its competition, and the food experience there has been disappointing in numerous visits I’ve made since its opening.
On the surface, it would seem odd that Norman, with the Cap Grill background, could not open a steak house with appealing recipes, but keep in mind that Cap Grill is a national chain. Its managers merely execute a carefully constructed playbook of time-tested recipes, and tinkering is not encouraged. (These days, Cap Grill is the only one of the national steak houses in town to have locally crafted chefs’ special on the menu—and they are winners.) Randy Norman didn’t need to hire a chef to reinvent the wheel at Cap Grill, but he did at r. Norman’s.
Norman also may not have taken the task seriously enough. Insiders tell me he could be seen at Oceanaire several nights a week, and I personally spotted him there on both my visits this spring. Trust me, you will not find another steak house GM in town out of his own restaurant and at a competitor (Oceanaire competes for the same expense account/affluent diner) during the dinner hour. Norman was, several nights a week.
The scuttlebutt on the street is that r. Norman’s is not ringing the cash register enough, so Koch and partners took action. Since Koch is publicly denying Norman is out, it’s hard to determine if these nightclub impresarios recognize the culinary handicap they are operating with or merely that sales are not meeting expectations.
Stay tuned—change is in the air all over town.
I seem a little cake-centric lately.
This is your last week to capitalize on the Nordic Ware warehouse clearance sale. You only have until August 2 to check out the factory store, which is simply stacked with huge deals, up to 75 percent off!
You do know that this is the humble Minnesota company that pioneered the bundt pan, don't you?
There are more than bundts available, however. The company has other bake ware, cookware, barbecue ware, and even micro ware. But its usually closed on Monday, so give it call: 952-924-9672.
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And just a quick update: I did stop at the Four Firkins and grabbed a trunkload of beers. The magic one I was looking for was aged in bourbon casks. I bought two bottles, drank one, and put the other in this cake, made in my own bundt pan. Rich and yummy.
I'm playing it low and slow this weekend. Maybe some market action, maybe some dim sum brunch. Thinking of making some popsicles or possibly just eating and drinking watermelon all weekend.
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The old girl has had a face-lift. Forepaugh's, the stately Victorian mansion-restaurant in St. Paul, will re-open on Monday after a fresh remodel by new owners, The Taher Group of Wayzata Eatery, Alaska Eatery, and Nordeast Eatery. They've spruced up the second and third floors, added a chef's table, and plushed-up the bar area to include comfy seating and Wifi. The menu promises New American food from chef Donald Gonzalez, formerly of Chambers Kitchen. I wonder if the ghost got a re-do as well?
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This one is new to me. In the picture-perfect little town of Marine on St. Croix, there's a little place called Marine Mills Cafe. There are no menus. Owner Maggie Luft just cooks what she feels like cooking that day, and you'll sit down and eat it. It's very much like visiting your German oma's house as she bids you to sit while she busies herself with the work of stuffing your face; and yes, Luft is German. Offering fresh, scratch-cooked fare, she might make you pancakes, scrambled eggs, or quiche for breakfast; you won't know until you get there. The real trick is getting there early because almost every day she runs out of seats and sells out of food. 41 Judd St., 651-433-4557
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Festivals this weekend: If you want to go big, go Lumberjack Days in Stillwater. Don't forget that they close the fest with Swedish meatball night on Sunday in Lowell Park. On the other side of the world, for a more wholesome, small-town festival, check out Chaska's River City Days. Yes, they'll have beer. And don't forget Wild West Frontier Fest over at Harriet Island where you can attend a dinner with Don Shelby dressed up as Mark Twain. Giddyup.
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Just because I've been in a fish mood lately, I'll tell you that Coastal Seafoods has a special this weekend on day-boat swordfish, which you could eat like this, this, or this.
What do you do for one of your best girls when she's been dumped by the guy she thought she might marry? You make her a cake. And get her drunk.
But what if she's a fabulously gluten-free girl? Then you make her this mille crepe cake with a little futzing. This is not the Martha Stewart version, which, by all accounts in the blogosphere, sucks. This one is perfect because it's light, creamy, and pretty and will make her feel like she deserves some elegance, beauty, and righteousness in her life. It may take a bit of work to make, but after one delicate bite, she will realize that she's worth more than settling for some stinky, washed-up, hockey-player wannabe.
Keep the brandy bottle out.
Breakup Cake (gluten-free with just a hint of booze)
Pastry Cream
2 c. milk 1 T. vanilla 6 egg yolks 1/2 c. sugar 1 T. Dutch cocoa 1/3 c. cornstarch 3-1/2 T. butter (Below: Whipped and added to pastry cream after chilled) 2 c. heavy cream 2 T. Dutch cocoa 3 T. brandy
Crepes
9 eggs 1 -/4 cup quinoa four 2 T. Dutch cocoa 1/2 c. sugar 2 c. milk 1 T. vanilla
For Pastry Cream: Get ready an ice bath with a small bowl sitting in a bigger bowl filed with ice water. Over high heat, bring milk to a boil, add vanilla, remove from heat, and set aside. In sauce pan, whisk eggs, sugar, cocoa, and cornstarch. Slowly, in a very metered stream, pour in hot milk while continuously whisking egg mix. Over medium-high heat, bring mixture to a slight boil, whisking constantly. Turn off heat, and immediately pour through fine mesh strainer into the ice-bath bowl. Stir as it cools. After approximately one minute, stir in butter. Cover, and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight. Before construction, whip heavy cream in a mixer with cocoa and brandy. It should be thick but won't hold stiff peaks. Fold this mix into the pastry cream, gently combining.
Crepes: Crack eggs into bowl, gently mix. Add flour, sugar, and cocoa, mixing well to form a pasty batter. Add the milk and vanilla, stir until smooth. Lightly butter a sauté pan, warming over medium heat. Pour approximately 1/4 cup full of batter, swirl around pan to coat the entire bottom. As the edges brown and the center firms up, lightly pull up edges with a spatula and flip crepe, heating other side for approximately thirty seconds. Remove from pan, and place on plate. Repeat, and stack crepes, I think I ended up with approximately sixty-five. URGENT NOTE: Your first crepe or two will most likely look like hell; don't give up. Depending on your pan, you may or may not need to re-butter. I don't.
Construction: I make the cream and the crepes the night before, letting them chill in the Fridgidaire. The rest is simple: place a crepe on the plate, spread a thick layer of cream over whole surface, leaving maybe 1/8th of an inch around the edge. Place a crepe on top, and repeat until you have a lovely stack, I think the draped edges are simple elegance. Try to keep it as centered as possible, your crepes will probably be varied in size, keep that in mind. CAUTION: The stack will be wobbly, so get it in the fridge for a few hours before serving. Definitely do not try to make the cake and then get in the car for a twenty minute drive to your friend's house as it will slide like a drunken party girl on a dance floor, and so will your mood.
Sift a little powdered sugar on the top, or on sprinkle cane sugar and caramelize it with a torch (keep torch away from sad friend).
While I was at Town Talk Diner last week, proprietor Tor Westgaard mentioned that Guy Fieri, host of Food Network’s entertaining Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, had been by recently, and a segment on the restaurant was in current rotation on cable. It’s episode DV0402 (useful on the network’s website) and is airing this Friday at 8 and 11 p.m. The half-hour is focused on places Fieri’s viewers turned him on to. Unfortunately Fieri’s viewer touted a braised meat dish that is no longer on the menu, the recipe for which belongs to a departed chef.
While in town, Fieri also shot a segment for the episode (“Burgers and Dogs,” DV0404) debuting July 28 at 8 p.m. Westgaard thought Fieri stopped at The Wienery on Cedar Avenue, which used to be owned by the couple who runs Wagner’s in St. Louis Park, but I think it has different owners now. Wagner’s might have been a better choice, based on some recent word of mouth.
The Town Talk guys say they quite liked Fieri, who struck them as a
very down-to-earth guy who knows food. Zimmern can't stand him. I'd
love to eat at many of the places Fieri chronicles (something I can't
say for Bizarre Foods, alas). Cast your ballot in the comments
section. Fieri: Cool or Tool?
Finally, Minneapolis/St. Paul is the sole focus of the premiere episode (“Minneapolis: More Than You Imagined”) of Road Tasted With the Neelys, hosted by members of the famed Memphis barbecue family. It debuts Tuesday night at 8:30 p.m. Let’s hope they didn’t come here looking for ‘cue. Wild rice soup, perhaps?
Update: Turns out the Neelys profiled a bunch of local food purveyors, including the Fairbault Dairy that makes St. Pete Blue, but got to only one restaurant. Steve Polski’s Market Bar-B-Que got some recognition for its unsauced, deeply smoked meats. Polski despises the “boiled and baked” school of 'cue so in vogue, but Market’s ‘cue can be an acquired taste—tough on occasion and a bit of work to eat, but it is definitely old school. If the Memphis barbecue royalty loved it, it’s gotta be legit.
I was in New York City a week ago and made a couple stops at Starbucks and other coffee chains. I was surprised, while standing in line, to see numerical calorie counts on the signs below the baked goods:
Banana Bread $1.99 445 Calories
It’s this week that the city’s new law requiring fast-food and chain restaurant/food groups to offer calorie counts on menus and signage takes effect. It’s not enough to post a board with nutrition information in the hallway to the bathrooms. The calorie counts must be listed prominently next to the menu item or sign identifying the food. Most of the food businesses screamed bloody murder when the law was passed, and there were the inevitable court cases, but the city won.
And at Starbucks, the information was illuminating. For example, most of the chain’s breakfast sandwiches containing an English muffin, egg, and other meats, cheeses, or veggies contained roughly the same number of calories as a slice of banana bread or coffeecake.
We’ve been falsely led by the nutrition community to demonize fat, but as we’ve come to understand (and this new long-term study confirms), sweetened carbohydrate treats, even when low in fat, are calorically much worse than our intuition would lead us to believe and nutritionally incomplete.
It is difficult for an independent bakery or restaurant to gather this sort of data. Menus change, portion size is inconsistent. But most importantly, most of us don’t eat in the same one daily. But lots of Americans start every day at Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts and eat lunch at the same couple of chains out by their office park, where the food is portion controlled, made identically, from menus that rarely change.
Yes, most of us understand that a salad with lemon vinaigrette is less caloric than a steak with mashed potatoes. But beyond the stark extremes, there are a lot of misperceptions about what is caloric and what isn’t. New York City’s law may seem to be providing obvious information to consumers, but for those of us who think a muffin has 200 calories and an egg/bacon sandwich 900, we are in for quite a surprise at a Manhattan Starbucks.
Sitting on the couch with the college-bound kid, both of us griping about money. She was bitter about not having made enough money this last year to receive a magical economic stimulus check, maddening when you slog pizzas three times a week. It's like being told you're not cute enough to get the Clinique gift with purchase. I told her it didn't matter; most people spent their money on Internet porn. From out of nowhere, my five-er comes around the corner and says, "Internet corn? That's silly." Indeed.
The space that was Canyon Grill in Eden Prairie will become another Santorini's by fall. I knew that spot wouldn't stay vacant what with all the parking and close proximity of cubicle warriors, but I was surprised to hear that a quiet lady such as Santorini was dusting off her dancing shoes.
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Bayport Cookery is unveiling a brand-new wine bar next weekend, July 25-26, just before its über popular Garlic Fest menu. The wine bar will feature wines by the glass, nightly specials, and appetizers from 4 p.m. to close on Wednesday through Sunday each week. I've got to get out there.
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If next Tuesday, July 22, finds you hungry, you won't have to use your new Urban Spoon gadget to find the perfect local restaurant. You can just go to the Taste of the Twin City Originals at the Nicollet Island Pavilion and sample from some of the best independent restaurants in the city. For a mere $35, you can snack on food from places such as the Dakota, Luci Ancora, Saffron, and The Sample Room. Now put your phone down.
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Surdyk's has called it: The backyard is the new black! In celebration of that, and in conjunction with their summer wine sale, they'll be hosting a good ol' time by sporting a classic back yard this weekend. Yes, green turf; yes, hot grillables. Now all we need is some jerk mowing the parking lot at 7 a.m. in a Speedo. Also, see if there are still tickets for the Jeffery Roberts cheese and wine thingy tonight.
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Monday is National Hot Dog Day! In times of economic downturn, who's there for you? The hot dog. When you're cooking halibut for yourself, and you have to feed your picky kids who don't deserve good fish anyway, where do you turn? To the hot dog. The beefy dudes at Chris & Rob's Chicago Taste Authority know how momentous this day is; that's why they are offering their Chicago Dog for a tiny nickel (when you buy fries/tots and a beverage, natch). Celebrate with the people you love.
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Two things about Manny's. First, just to let you know, its last day in the old digs will be Saturday, August 9. Reservations are already packed, but you could still stop by the bar and kiss Gerald and cop a feel on the big, fat, naked red head. Secondly, some good news for cheese lovers. There has been much chatting lately about that ooey, gooey burrata cheese that is all the rage. Well, the Manny's in Miami (freshly opened if you didn't know) is running a burrata appetizer, and the gang here is trying like crazy to source the product for the new opening menu. Just a guess, but I think that means you'll be able to find it at the other Parasole joints as well. And also, apparently you can buy it yourself at Whole Foods.
I love those days when it's only lunch time, but I'm already excited about dinner. I might as well continue sucking down coffee because anything else would be a space holder, a weak opening act to what I'm looking forward to later.
And really, there are two things I'm excited about.
First, I'm stopping off at the Four Firkins on the way home. I've been meaning to get to this craft beer store for awhile. I am all atither with the thought of chatting about cask-conditioned ales and finding a few good beers to cook with this weekend. I need a fatty stout for chocolate cake and something fruity for mussels. I'll report back.
Then I'm headed to Patrick's by Southdale for some Patou burgers. Have you heard of these? At this location only (which was remodeled into a casual and breezy cafe space if you didn't know), he's kicking out a forestier burger with Brie and caramelized onions and a merguez burger with spicy lamb and other yummy looking options, all on freshly baked baguettes. Bonus, the kids menu has a croque monsieur, which is like crack to my kids.
People love me because I take them out to dinner. No, it's OK, I know they also value my sparkling wit and the fact that I drink. And then, after the drinking, I tend to get a little gossipy and snarky. It's all fun.
And yet, I felt like I should bring a new high-mindedness to the eating, some new enlightenment. So when I had to go visit Dancing Ganesha last week, I brought some friends from yoga—because we are all on a journey, edible or otherwise. I've been totally seduced by The Practice and have come to crave my yoga sessions at Catherine's studio. Plus, her dad is Indian, so she was a shoo-in.
It was quiet when we sat down, but Vincent, one of the owners, was lovely and paid us a lot of attention, calling us by name and thanking us for coming. Love that. We started with a round of mango mojitos because enlightenment needs greasing, along with some snacks. Veggie samosas were good and crispy, the chard and watercress pakoras were a little hard but earthy and flavorful. The dahi wada is a lentil dumpling in yogurt sauce, but we couldn't get past the State Fair mini-donut flavor.
I think it was Catherine who first noticed the water. The skunky, moldy, algae-lovin' water. We didn't know then that it wasn't their fault. But shockingly, they didn't even have bottled water to order. So we drank beer.
I would love to tell you about how we reached deep and discussed the meanings of our meditations while doing The Practice, but it was more about how I covet Karen's headstand and how April's arms are sometimes so rubbery that she can't drive home. And then the masala dosa arrived! The giant lentil and rice crepe took our breath away. Seriously the size of a place mat, it was crispy on the edges and packed with fragrant caramelized onions and potatoes.
The rest of our dinner came to the table, and we passed and chatted. The coconut poached shrimp is listed as one of their contemporary entrées. It was a favorite at the table with a rich flavor, but I expected something different, something more. We did chicken tikka masala, which was fine but not that exciting. But the chettinad masala was swimming in a tangy, spicy sauce that my naan kept finding over and over again.
By the second bottle of Taj Mahal, we were full and happy. The space had filled with chattering guests, and the warm colors were working. Barring enlightenment, I will say that for a table of yogis looking to escape the bonds of life in a way that doesn't make you sweat, Dancing Ganesha fit the bill.
**Don't forget to check our the new Second Helpings about Jax Cafe!**
Don't you think that this Fresh Forkin' Friday marks our full immersion into true summer? No more holidays, most kid sports have wrapped up, the dew point is rocketing, my daily road construction time delay is two hours, and all I can think about is when I'm going to get my next Popsicle. What I need now are some local festivals and cheese curds. Then I'm good.
Here's a sure sign of summer (or the apocalypse, you choose), Corona is opening Cantina #1 at the Mall of America. I'm actually a huge fan of Corona beer (I use it to make my pool-side cheladas), but who's not honestly wary of MOA theme restaurants? On the upside, if they can throw a beach party in January, they might get my attention. Celebrate the grand opening with a contest, next Wednesday, in which you dig for pesos and win free tacos for a year.
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There was much ballyhoo with the closing of Tre Vina in the St. Paul stockyards building, I shan't take sides . . . but the former owners are working at Salut in St. Paul if you want to hear the drama. The owners of the building, which also houses Valentino's Nightclub, are revamping the space and bringing in fresh blood. The space is still being redecorated, but it has been reborn as Bourbon Street Steak House with a new chef, namely Eric (Big E) Austin who was the man behind the now defunct Big E's Soul Food in Minneapolis. Haven't seen a menu yet, but they say it will be classic steak favorites with some soulful southern dishes thrown in.
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Cafe Oliver, a sassy little coffee cafe by day and wine bar by night, has taken over the old Acadia Cafe spot on Nicollet and Franklin. They plan to seduce you with Mel-O-Glaze in the morning and Etica wines at night. They should be open by early next week.
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Two other Coming Soon signs spotted: Sen Yai Sen Lek Thai in Nordeast off Central and Lowry and a little Le Patisserie in Excelsior across from the super-cheap gas station.
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For anyone who ever lived and dated in Uptown, you should crack a bottle of wine and toast the end of an era. Giorgio's will close its doors on July 30. I have some really good memories of chianti and some really bad memories of dates there. Rumor has it that the al Vento people are interested in the space. Could be the beginning of a new era of good food and bad dates. Enjoy!
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If you haven't secured tickets yet, get out there and support your market! The Mill City Farmers Market is holding a benefit for the market on July 26 from 8-11 p.m. on the Chicago Avenue mall. There will be live music, drinks, snacky foods, and killer reserved seating for the Aquatennial fireworks show, not to mention the feeling of goodwill that comes with supporting a vibrant part of our city. Tickets are $75, RSVP to Beth@millcityfarmersmarket.org or 651-307-3082 by July 18. P.S. This weekend is Trout Fest at the market!
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Did you know that this Saturday is Berry Jam at the Midtown Global Market? It's going to be berry festive, folks. I'm berry excited. They promise a berry fun day of cooking demonstrations, crafts, a pie-eating contest, jammin' music, prize giveaways, and cupcake decorating with the gang at SaltyTart. It sounds like a berry good time can be had 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Is this berry annoying yet?
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Do you think people from either coast get excited when they hear the words "beer and cheese party?" Call me a flyover northerner, but I got excited just typing that. Factor in that it's a local artisinal beer and cheese party featuring Chef Brenda Langton and Jeffrey Roberts, director of Slow Food USA and author of The Atlas of Artisan American Cheese, and I'm already waiting for the doors to open next Saturday. This benefit for the American Cheese Society is being held on July 19 at Cafe Brenda. Tickets are $50, call for more info: 763-544-2025.
Did my digging last weekend.
Good news for all you chef groupies who like to follow your foodmakers wherever they lay their knives. Apparently Marianne Miller is cooking at Biella, on and off. Word from the cute guy at the host stand is that she's on the line, from time to time, cooking and contributing to the menu.
Last news of Miller was that she was working with the Saga Hill Cooking School in Wayzata. Indeed, the Biella website lists a menu created by Miller for a wine dinner held in conjunction with the school; I am intrigued by the super white tuna schnitzel with graham cracker tempura and white chocolate beurre.
Cute host guy said he thinks she'll be cooking again next week and that I should just call ahead to see if she's there.
OK.
Sad news today. Tom Broder, owner and visionary behind Broders' Pasta Bar and Broders' Cucina, passed away on Saturday due to a life-long heart condition. He was fifty-nine.
Tom, along with his wife and business partner, Molly, was instrumental in awakening our senses to the world of good food. When they opened the Cucina in 1982 at 50th and Penn, things such as goat cheese and kalamata olives were still exotic. With the opening of the kitty-corner Pasta Bar in 1994, the Broders helped educate us about the spectacular possibilities of freshly-made pasta, a particular passion of Tom's.
Not content to be mere restaurant owners, both Tom and Molly were forces in the local industry. Whether holding benefits for other ailing chefs, mentoring young industry hopefuls through the Twin Cities Originals organization, or spearheading the 1996 effort to change the wine and beer laws for neighborhood restaurants (leading to the bounty of eateries we know today), the Broders have always been generous with their time and lives.
The family is grateful to all the health professionals who cared for Tom throughout the past fourteen years. In lieu of flowers, the family requests that donations be sent to the Abbott Northwestern Heart Institute Foundation. Friends may visit at the family home on Tuesday, July 8, from 4–8 p.m.,
and Wednesday, July 9, from 4– 8 p.m. at 4841 Russell Ave. S., Mpls.
I think it was a slow week in the restaurant world, or maybe I just felt the impending holiday and turned a deaf ear to all but my grillables.
Did you know that July is National Ice Cream Month? Like you need a reason, shyah. Gotta tell ya, I think we are blessed with a bevy of good scoop shops in the Cities. Maybe it's because we spend so much time in a freeze box ourselves, we know a good scoop when we see it. If you have no idea where to start, check out Red Pepper; she's been doing some legwork on the subject. If you have a few recipe ideas of your own, my Cuisinart and I salute you.
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Because its June tasting menu was so popular, Saffron will host a new one each month. July will focus on "tasting for two" as it offers dishes meant to be shared. Grab a honey or smoocher or dateless friend, and pop in for a meze sampler (with those harissa-lovin' kofte meatballs!) followed by paella, then house-made ice creams. Cost is $55/couple and $50 for the vegetarian version.
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It has probably been about ten years since I ventured to the Taste of Minnesota, but my kids are lobbying hard because they've never been. Looking at the list of vendors, I might be swayed by the possibility of an El Burrito ear of elote (if the booth is actually El Burrito Mercado). More likely, I'll take the brood to the Powderhorn Park celebration, which is being sponsored by Midtown Global Market and will feature Manny's Tortas! Holy Land! Pham's Deli! and the surviving West Indies Soul!
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Since I'll be staying local this year instead of heading out of town, I'm thinking of doing a little farming. Well, not really farming as much as just picking. Tooling through the local lists of pick-your-own farms, I've narrowed it down to a few good options for raspberries. And if I don't want to kill my children by the end of the day, I might make them something good with our bounty.
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The other thing I'll be doing this weekend is some sneaky snooping work. I've heard a rumor and must check it out to confirm, but the gossipy Page Six quote would go like this: Which much-lauded chef-without-a-restaurant has been rumored to be cooking in a lakeside bistro? Tune in next week ...
Last Saturday night, I found myself alone, broke, and hungry. It was only a temporary slump—husband out of town, I just bought a summer blanket and Euro shams, and it was dinnertime—but still, as someone who cherishes alone time, I was surprised to feel so, well, lonesome. I needed something delicious, fast. Luckily I had fresh loot from the Mill City Farmers Market, so I set about making a light supper of pasta and salad. As the water boiled, I remembered how Judith Jones, the legendary editor of Julia Child, Madhur Jaffrey, Marion Cunningham, and plenty others, affirms the pleasure of cooking for one. Set the table, light a candle, and have a proper meal, she says. Preparing food is so often about other people, it’s easy to forget how nice it can be when it’s just you.
Perfect Summer Supper (Now confirmed to cure minor blues.)
Pasta squares with wood sorrel ($3.50 for 4 oz., Susan Dietrich’s Very Prairie stand) Bunch of ridiculously fragrant fresh thyme ($1.25, multiple stands) Unsalted butter (I’m working my way through a pound from Hope Creamery) Parmigiano Reggiano Kosher salt Fresh ground pepper
Salt water just after it boils, cook pasta (The squares are delicate. They only need a few minutes). Drain pasta, reserving some of the water. Return pasta to pan over low heat. Add a tablespoon or so of butter and a handful of chopped thyme. Stir gently until butter melts, adding a bit of the reserved pasta water if you like. Serve in large bowl, grate cheese over noodles, season to taste.
Mache (any greens will do) Lemon Extra virgin olive oil Raspberries Fresh thyme (no need to use it all in the pasta!) Kosher salt Fresh ground pepper
Make a simple dressing by whisking together freshly squeezed lemon juice and olive oil (roughly one-third lemon juice to two-thirds oil). Season to taste. Toss with mache, raspberries, and throw in a few pinches of chopped thyme. Serves 1.
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