Baby, it’s cold outside. So: soup. Of course. Of course! But what soup? Food and dining editor Steph March and I were gossiping about the top soups in the Twin Cities, and right now I’m thinking that picking any of the following would provoke a full on food-war, a broth-y cataclysm from which the Twin Cities might never recover. Can you pick a favorite? If so, you’re a better food critic than I. I’m just torn and feeling that each is better than the next.
Feeling Japanese
Minnesota’s been in a Japanese soup frame of mind the last few years. We can’t get enough of that combination of vital, long-cooked broth and silky, slurpy noodles. The top 3 in town? Here they are:
1) Abura Ramen from Moto-I
Savory and rich, this meaty, eggy bowl of extra porky, rib-sticking ramen will take away even the nastiest chill. 2940 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls., 612-821-6262, moto-i.com
2) Pork Belly Ramen from Masu Sushi and Robata
Mall-walking is the preferred activity of Minnesota’s winter wimps—but just because you’re wimpy doesn’t mean you don’t deserve good warm-up food, like the oh-so-rich and intense pork belly ramen at Masu. I think of it as the steak you eat with a spoon, even though it doesn’t have any steak—it’s just that meaty and intense—with the combination of pork belly and egg yolk. 330 E. Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-332-6278; Mall of America, 952-896-6278, masusushiandrobata.com
3) Vegetarian wild mushroom soba from Tanpopo
Who says carnivores have all the good soups? The wild mushroom soba with vegetarian mushroom broth proves that the fifth taste, umami, also known as meatiness, is delicious to herbivores too. 308 Prince St., St. Paul, 651-209-6527, tanpoporestaurant.com
Matzo-Ball Balling
They don’t call it the Jewish penicillin for nothing. If you get struck by a nasty bug, dispatch your loved ones for a take-out quart of the good stuff, stat:
1). Meritage
Chef Russell Klein is known for his brilliant French-inspired food, but ever since he opened he’s had a delicate and beautiful matzo ball soup on his menu, a tribute to his Long Island childhood. 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, meritage-st.paul.com
2). Cecil’s Deli
Old fashioned and classic, for a good swath of St. Paul Cecil’s Deli is the ultimate in throwback perfection—eat it on a TV tray in front of a Mary Tyler Moore marathon, for the ultimate in Minnesota retro. 651 Cleveland Ave. S., St. Paul, 651-698-0334, cecilsdeli.com
3). Crossroads Deli
Hearty and heartier, the Chicken in a Pot from the Crossroads Deli is more than a soup, it’s a dinner for 2, with matzo balls, it’s abundant sustenance incarnate. 2795 Hedberg Dr., Hopkins, 952-546-6595, crossroadsdelicatessen.com
Spicy Spice Bomb Spice Style
Got one of those colds that has your head locked up tighter than the Fed after dark? Try one of these spicy joys and you’ll be back to your old self in no time:
1). Pozole Blanco from Los Ocampo
Savory, rich and porky broth, and a dozen add-ins, including tender hominy, fresh lime wedges, and pure blood-red chili powder, make this savory, succulent, and healing. 1751 Suburban Ave., St. Paul, 651-256-2932, losocampo.com
2). Menudo from Homi Restaurant Mexicano
Silky and fiery, St. Paul’s homey restaurant Homi makes a menudo with a beautifully thick and unctuous broth, restorative and wholesome. 864 W. University Ave., 651-222-0655, homirestaurant.com
3). Hot Pot from Hoban Korean Restaurant
Trying to pick a soup from the excellent array at Hoban is difficult: The dumpling stuffed Mandoo Gook, or the roiling spicy glory of the kimchi chigae? Best bet is to work your way through them all—it’s one of the best ways to spend a Minnesota winter. 1989 Silver Bell Rd., Eagan, 651-688-3447, hobanrestaurant.com
Classic
If you need serious comforting, you might need one of the most classic of all Minnesota soups—but which one is the most classic? Those are fighting words, like trying to pick the best mom. But it’s probably one of these:
1). Tomato Basil from Turtle Bread
The soup that defined Minnesota for a generation, born at dear departed Pam Sherman’s Bakery, still legendary. Tomatoes, basil, chunky, a little creamy, yum. 4762 Chicago Ave., Mpls., 612-823-7333; 3421 W. 44th St., Mpls., 612-924-6013; 4205 E. 34th St., Mpls., 612-545-5757, turtlebread.com
2). Cream of Wild Rice from St. Paul Grill
Who makes the most classic, super-creamy wild rice soup in Minnesota? Good arguments could be made in favor of Byerly’s, but I’ll pick the one from the St. Paul Grill—it’s the comfort-food equivalent of the coziest comforter, pulled up to your chin, while a kitty purrs soothingly. 350 Market St., St Paul, 651-224 – 7455, stpaulgrill.com
3). Pho from Ngon Bistro
Who has the best Vietnamese Pho in the Twin Cities? Those are fighting words in Minnesota, the land of 10,000 bowls of really good pho. One of the absolute best is to be found at Ngon bistro, made from grass-fed oxtail, and fragrant with anise. 799 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-222-3301, ngonbistro.com








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