Tell people in Minneapolis that you’re about to eat sushi from a truck and you get two responses: Horror, or nervous laughter followed by quick retreat. I know. I spent several days last week planning to get to Sushi Fix, the new sushi truck that debuted in downtown Minneapolis, but every day last minute flare-ups derailed my plans. By the time I made it there I had taken an inadvertent poll of my friends and neighbors about the whole idea of sushi on trucks. They were dead against it.
But their minds must change! Because I have now been to Sushi Fix, and I’m slightly in love. It’s owned by Enkhbileg Tserenbat, a former sushi chef at Yumi, the Excelsior sushi spot which is always so well-reviewed, and Steph March and I went and ordered a selection of the new truck’s rolls, salads, and individual nigiri pieces and agreed immediately: Spread the word, this is good stuff.
Highlights: The plain old salmon nigiri ($5) pieces were flat out gorgeous, fatty and fresh, orange as a tequila sunrise, pristine and excellent. I’ve had hundreds of orders of salmon nigiri in my time reviewing Twin Cities restaurants, and this was as good as it gets, ideally fresh, well-made, a shot out of the park. Another stunner: A unique take on seaweed salad ($7), lightened and freshened with tangles of shredded daikon and cucumber, and dressed with a light vinaigrette popping with chili flakes, it vibrated with umami flavors and made you crave another bite as soon as you finished the first. The guy taking orders recommended I also try the Mexican roll ($15), a salmon and tuna combination with spicy mayo, cilantro, and avocado. It was beautifully fresh and delicious, though very lightly spiced, reading to the palate more as ‘fresh’ than ‘Mexican.’ Not that that’s a bad thing. I didn’t love the 2-14 roll as much, though it’s beautiful, wrapped in pink soy paper and molded into a triangle filled with tuna, salmon, and shrimp tempura.
So far I give this place my enthusiastic endorsement: It’s way better than any of the local grocery-store sushi options, and better than most of the downtown skyway options (with the possible exception of the Kikugawa outpost.) How good is it? It’s so good that it looks good from ten yards: A woman in the Crystal Court noticed Steph March and I chowing down on our spread of sushi treats and marched over begging to know where they came from, ten minutes later she had her own sushi picnic. And she’ll tell two friends, and so on, and so on.
The one thing that surprised me about Sushi Fix was how the prices aren’t any cheaper than what you’ll pay at the great brick-and-mortar downtown sushi restaurants Nami and Origami. Isn’t there some kind of discount to pass along to the customer when you’re not paying property taxes? On the other hand, most downtown Minneapolis office workers are too far from Origami for a quick run for take-out, and so I suppose all is fair in love and war—and sushi, now shockingly fresh, on wheels.