Something for Everyone
By Andrew Zimmern
The folks at Parasole know what they are doing, but when I saw the press release for Il Gatto, the restaurant going into the old Figlio’s space, I flinched at the reference to “of course there’ll be a burger on the menu…”. Is it just me or is that idea yesterday's news? I don’t want one-stop shopping in every restaurant I go to…quite the opposite. I just returned from Tokyo and believe what I call the Japanese model (go to a tempura restaurants for tempura, a sukiyaki shop for sukiyaki, a nabe den for great nabe etc.) makes more sense than ever for this market. I want expertise and execution when I go out to eat. These days I don’t want "something-for-everyone" eateries a la Cheesecake Factory where the menu is five miles long. I sit at home and I feel like pizza so I go to Punch, I want steamed walleye with ginger and scallion I go to Shuang Cheng, and so on. When I go to a chef-driven tablecloth restaurant it is for entertainment, relaxation, socializing with my companions, and of course for eating that particular chef's offerings. More focus is what restaurants could use more of these days, and as a diner I think focusing my attention on what I want to eat and where to go get it helps me be happy at mealtime.
Speaking of happy. I just had an interview with a reporter at Wilde Roast, and on the way home stopped at Kramarczuks for a wedge of Krakowska and some black pumpernickel and I made a quick sandwich in the car. Insane how good that was and how superb so many of the offerings are over there. Just a reminder for those that haven’t been there in a while. Grilling their fresh Ukrainian sausage with some kraut is as good a meal as you can make in four minutes.
I spoke to my pals at Magical Elves the other day and they told me that “Top Chef,” the number 1 rated food show on cable, will be scouting culinary talent for season seven at Occidental Grill in D.C. on Wednesday, November 4th. Six other locations are being used to audition potential Top Chefs. More information on casting for “Top Chef” can be found here.
Project Explorer is one of the coolest ideas out there, many of us have recorded or are recording videos supporting their work and their global citizenship initiative, Anthony Bourdain’s video was featured a few days ago on the food blog, Serious Eats. I am recording mine next week, so stay tuned for that.
Hopefully I will see you all at the Mall Of America this Sunday at 2pm for my book-signing in the Best Buy Rotunda, right by the Barnes and Noble. Next Tuesday I am at the Minneapolis Public Library for their Talk of the Stacks series if you can make it out to MOA.
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My family is sick of me telling them about my restaurant concept... but I've always wanted to open a place called "What's for dinner?" People would come in, say, "What's for dinner?", the chef would tell them, and they could take it or leave it.
We just got back from Napa, where we ate at Thomas Keller's ad hoc, which is pretty much that idea. I loved it (although the service was poor. surprising.) Still, it was the perfect anecdote to the 12 page menu.
Posted by: Jason DeRusha on October 15, 2009 at 10:14 AM
If you really want to see a menu with too much "stuff" in it, go to Hong Kong Noodle on Washington Ave. OMG!
Posted by: Food Newb on October 15, 2009 at 1:22 PM
I love fine dining, ethnic delites and trying new dishes- - BUT I also love a good burger-
I see nothing wrong with a burger on menu at the new Figlio replacement cafe- - burgers are American Classic- - only hope this new place serves quality burgers...
Posted by: ann steiner on October 15, 2009 at 3:53 PM
Global Citizenship followed by a plug for Mall of America, Best Buy, and Barnes & Noble? Really?
You've sold out. Don't try to hide it.
Posted by: Gumpster on October 16, 2009 at 10:00 PM
Gumpster, what is your problem? Unless you are self-employed, as long as you take a paycheck you've "sold out" too. Let the man make a living.
Posted by: Dumpster on October 17, 2009 at 12:23 PM
Parasole has jumped the shark tank. Why so much attention to a restaurant group that should be named "Butter and Salt?"
Posted by: Gulp on October 18, 2009 at 10:42 AM
Mmmm, butter, salt....
sorry, you distracted me with that last comment.
Chef Andrew, I guess that the bigger,more options menu comes in handy when you eat out as a family. For instance, my oldest doesn't eat seafood, never has, but is always willing to try things. So for us going to a seafood restaurant with out some other options is tough. When you have to please 5 or 6 people, it helps to have a few options on the menu.
Personally, I agree, I also like the Tokyo concept and loved eating there. But the dining out model there is much different here. You don't see restaurants filled with families as much as you see business men and clients eating out.
BTW, just returned from a Disney Cruise where the biggest complaint is that the food is too good. (and the food WAS very, very good.) Not enough burgers, meat and potatoes on the menu. That sounds like a cry for Cheese Cake Factory if I ever heard one.
Posted by: rob barrett on October 19, 2009 at 10:41 AM