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August 25, 2009, 8:43 AM

Uncertainty at Nick and Eddie

By Andrew Zimmern

Strange rumblings from readers regarding Nick and Eddie. My e-mail inbox has been lighting up like a Christmas tree for a week with reports of an exodus from the kitchen—Vranian gone (supposedly “bought out” a few weeks ago, which is oftentimes restaurant code for many other things), Steven Brown gone, and Flicker helping out at D'Amico Kitchen. Several friends who are regulars buzzed me to say they had asked about some of these chefs and were told they weren’t there anymore. Some of these folks were just cooking at N & E between other gigs, but some of them have been publicly despondent about the place on their social media pages.

It seems just a few months ago (literally) that the best kept secret in town was the all-star lineup killing it over by Loring Park, so all the recent hubbub made me kinda sad. I ate there twice early on, and really liked much of what I had. Plus the place had that certain indescribable something, sort of like the umami of ambiance. Doug Anderson, the public face of the enterprise, has an incredible knack for striking the right tones with his restaurants and getting details pegged, both elements of restaurant creation that escape so many local owner/operators.

The underlying feeling I have right now about this restaurant is a Yogi Berra-inspired dreamlike evanescence. It’s déjà vu all over again—remember Bakery on Grand and A Rebours? Great openings, great vibes, great teams in place to handle the food coming out of the kitchen, killer cuisine, great everything. Then, just as the restaurants entered puberty, shazam! Kitchens in upheaval, management shake-ups and so on, all ultimately ending in broken hearts as the restaurants became only memories. And looking back, it seems odd that after trying for years to put N & E together and spearheading its concept and design, Anderson wasn’t publicly part of the “official” ownership team. If I remember correctly, it was his wife Jessica, one of the best bakers in town, and Vranian who got all the juice as owner/operators. It seemed quirky at the time, but often what gets written up in press releases or publicly touted when an eatery opens runs contrary to the actual business registry in terms of who owns what. Now looking back, it seems even more odd.

So tell me why I should stay positive on this one…where is N & E headed?

One of the most plugged-in and switched-on food mavens in town suggested that Anderson, David Fhima, and Eric Austin should all open a restaurant together called Cataclysm. Cracked me up. I think we get Hecker and Petters to finance the deal and start taking reservations…

And am I the only person truly let down by the lack of interesting new edible offerings at the State Fair this year?

Comments

What, no comment about who won Top Chef Masters?

Nick and Eddie's has been posted for a long time. Word on the street is that they have been losing significant amounts of money due to sky high labor costs. If you produce well executed food and sell it at a loss the critics and foodies will always love you.

In all the upheaval, they've *apparently* had issues getting their new liquor license (at least that's what they're saying), so all they've really had in stock to drink over the last FEW weeks (!) is a lot of wine, a couple bottles of UV vodka, and a bit of absinthe.

Whenever I bring it up, they say, "Next week, we should be getting everything in," but so far it hasn't happened. Personally, I don't mind much, but it can't be good for business if your bar shelves are collecting dust.

What's up guys? What's gonna happen to my favorite neighborhood joint?

Is it just me or is Eve, the most recently booted contestant on Top Chef, a dead ringer for Mary Kay Letourneau?

This is truly sad news as I thought N&E was a delightful addition to the area and had the potential to be the one business to break the curse of that space. That said, I had heard rumblings as well but I didn't realize the troubles were that severe.

And the Cataclysm joke made my day.

I went there a few weeks ago and was told they'd have beer the following week, but from the commentary leads me to believe it's not been sorted out. I walked by last week and sign on door said they were closed for dinner, but open for lunch. Recent reviews online state disappoinment for being closed for dinner. I hope, hope, hope that this place moves past this and stays open. The area needs this kind of establishment.

Why is it that everywhere the brilliant Steven Brown goes he is ushered out?

Is the guy THAT hard to work with? I love the guy, yet he keeps on getting shown the door.

What is up with that????

While it is fun to talk trash about chefs who get good press I don't think this has anything to do with that. It is my understanding that the problems at Nick and Eddie's are money driven. It is dangerous opening an upscale restaurant in the middle of a nasty recession. Dining was way off last winter, a lot of places got into a hole they are still climbing out of.

Steven Brown had nothing to do with it. He came late in the game. Take a look at the track record of Vranian who was running the kitchen. Very short stays at nearly every TC place he has been. There are a lot of cooks in this town that would never work with him again. Myself included. Anon

I fell in love with N&E about a year ago. I would be sad to see them go!!
Vranians and Andersons are welcome to; cook, bake, cater, kick it, with/for me anytime.

best thing at the fair? Risotto on a stick from Jakeenos/Global Market and a giant-juice running down your arms peach- from the Produce Exchange

I am so irritated by this post. You should be saddened by the possibility of losing a wonderful restaurant, but instead you seem gleeful at the opportunity to gossip about it.

They are on the dreaded tax list. See recent post

I am just wondering if there are any home-made noodle asian places in town and if not why??? What about smaller not popular chef restaurants. I hear so much of who is doing what around town but what about the small restaurant chef's? I would love to see more spotlights on them.

Just a thought.

all of you are sadly mistaken in your posts and your information. Im speaking from a position no one else here has before...as a former employee. I was not a pissed of server who got fired or a line cook who was outsourced. i was a dedicated employee who was lied to and was cheated out of a large sum of money due to mr anderson's deception. You want to know why nick and eddie is almost dead? you want to know why the are "having trouble getting a liquor license? Its simple. Doug can't handle money. He hasn't paid his liquor bill and in minnesota when you do that, you cant buy any booze until the debt is paid. Why do you think the kitchen staff keeps getting replaced.....he isnt paying them. ANd i am sorry to disagree with Andrew but from working with the man for a few years i know that his restaurants were anything but "awesome"....doug has a charm for seducing people. It worked on me. But once you realize that, you realize that his restaurants, just like him, are all hype and no delivery

Suzie you are misinformed

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