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July 8, 2009, 8:07 AM

Giant Pastries and Sad Goodbyes

By Andrew Zimmern

What a strange weekend. Happy 4th by the way, belated is better than not at all. Anyone been to Hans Bakery in Anoka on 5th Avenue South? It is a delight, old school in the extreme, with homemade donuts that are to die for, incredible coffee cakes like Granny used to make, insane apple fritters, and, best of all, something called a Beehive—two yeasty spongy bready layers of an Eastern European variety stuffed three inches deep with fresh pastry cream. A three-pound 12-inch behemoth that serves 10 or more is 12 bucks. You have to try one! They even make individual mini-Beehives but why bother, go big or don’t go at all.

One of my fave restaurants closed the other day, RIP Mortons. And one of my least favorites is about to close as well. I have it on good authority that it is not a matter of if but a matter of when. Bellanotte has been running on fumes, and like many other businesses around town it is pretty much dead, they just don't know it yet. So what moves into those spaces downtown? Bellanotte is humongous, and will be yet another vacant spot in the cavernous hole that is the Block E behemoth on Hennepin. Last I checked, the restaurant had 453 friends on MySpace, so maybe they will all want to check out the new restaurant that might take its place. Perhaps a NASCAR themed restaurant? Bellanotte honcho Dave Koch has moved his GM from Bellanotte over to 7 Steak house/Sushi/Ultralounge, another sign that the end is near for the Big B.

7, by the way, is also supposed to get a new chef at some point, but in today’s market that might not make a difference at all in whether that restaurant stays open. Steak houses are not exactly the niche business du jour, and 7 has a lousy rep for food. I'm not sure anyone can save this place. A very highly placed person who does business with the company told me the other day that 7 can indeed make it if they get some more distance from the Denny Hecker relationship and get a realistic business plan in place for each revenue center. I am less optimistic because resuscitation jobs are the hardest trick in this trade, but if 7 did indeed bow out before 2009 ends it would be a black mark on the downtown Minneapolis restaurant scene as a whole…this has been a really sad year.

And who will want to lease the Morton’s space, a room that was one of the worst in town? As much as I loved eating there, the room was depressing, all the way down in the bowels of a basement of a dungeon of a room. Very sad. And lots of hardworking folks in both restaurants are now out of work. To get even more strange, I also read yesterday that Oceanaire filed for Chapter 11. According to MSP Business Journal the company closed four of its restaurants and (Charlotte, North Carolina, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and Seattle) will “pay its vendors for all post-petition purchases, and it anticipates no changes to employees work schedules, pay, or benefits, except at the closed locations.” The restaurant owes Coastal Seafoods more than 20K. And that’s not post petition dough either.

I wonder how much other restaurants around town owe purveyors like Coastal, local companies that essentially help bankroll restaurants by lending them food product to sell, getting paid for product weeks later. Or never, in some cases. How much did Bellanotte owe, or Morton’s? Companies who sell product to restaurants go into their business with their eyes wide open, and employees can see writing on the wall as well, but the whole thing seems sad in the extreme to me.

On a brighter note, Sea Change, Tim McKee’s new restaurant in the Guthrie will formally be open sometime after July 20th. I am also happy to note that I ate again at the Brasa in St Paul and the food there is just as deliciously awesome as you would hope, service was hip and efficient, and the large family meal table complete with Lazy Susan is as nice a touch as I have seen in a casual spot this year.

Comments

Took 12 of the Kerwin clan to the Big Table at Brasa on the July 3rd. YUM. It's a good day to be a St. Paulite.

Can't make the travel to Anoka but crave the old school pastries? The Bakery's wife on 4200 and 28th Avenue South! I just put away an American teacake the size of a babies head!

I am thoroughly enjoying the Grand Avenue trifecta of Brasa, India House, and Punch. Yay!

I love, love, love Hans! (Though the Baker's Wife is great too~they made my wedding cake.)

I agree with you very much Andrew, Morton's will truly be missed..In my opinion Mort's was THE STANDARD of local steakhouses.Oh well,off to Ruth Chris i go.

Heres why Ruth's Chris is the worst steak house on the planet: the meat comes on a scorching hot sizzle platter so by definition it is overcooking as you eat it. Horriffic.

Andrew, I agree with your opinion on the "sizzle platter" aspect of Ruth Chris..That's why when we go we specify NO BUTTER on the beef.

Ruth's Chris? You've got Murray's and Manny's to choose from and you choose the Chili's of steak places to go to...come on. Perhaps ChoiceLover may be more appropriate. FOR SHAME!

And the only thing that could fit in the Bellenote cavern is a ESPNZone...which of course we desperately need...I also think the bizarro praying hands on the side of that building are praying for someone to demolish the piece of shit.

Dear David Foureyes, You OBVIOUSLY do not know the beef programs of said restaurants...Ruth's Chris is THE ONLY remaining steakhouse to serve PRIME BEEF only!! Manny's uses some CHOICE and UN-GRADED DRY-AGED beef while Murray's uses CHOICE beef exclusively!! Please know your FACTS before throwing out information that you know nothing about.

Put your claws away sweetheart. Let me be more direct; Ruth's Chris serves terrible-tasting steak on a fajita platter in a room that looks like a Moonlighting set. It is, quite plainly, the worst steakhouse in Minneapolis (provided Best Steak House is no longer open).

Additionally, Manny's serves dry-aged steaks. They are not all dry-aged. I do not care either way.

Hopefully that clarifies things.

I love Hans Bakery and their beehive cakes! Pure yumminess! The cakes freeze really well too if want to get more than one. I do this since I don't make it up to Anoka very often from South of the River. Just thaw the cake in the fridge a day or two before you want to serve it. It doesn't quite taste the same as fresh, but it's darn close!

Because the steaks at Ruth's Chris are served on sizzling platters they stay warm to the last bite... and butter is alway you option. Peter Lugar's adds a ladleful of butter to their steaks. Many other chef's brush their steaks with butter. The only difference is that the servers don't mention it in their presentation. I never saw a chef who doesn't love the flavor that butter adds to many dishes. Once I watched a well know celebrity chef in cooking demonstration when he said to add "a pinch of salt" he added a hearty teaspoon then he said to add a "a slice of butter" as he added half a stick. Laughingly he said what he says in his recipes and what he actually does are often a little at odds. I hope you all can enjoy the great food that many restaurants offer without obsessing about butter and salt. At least their not know to endanger the environment of effect global warming

While Seven Steakhouse is pretty sad, the sushi is a bright spot. Some of the best I've had in the city . Sadly, the space doesn't match the food. And even worse, I refuse to go on a weekend when it goes all club-like. But for a quiet sushi dinner on a Sun/Mon/Tues it's the best in town.

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