Chambers New Home for D'Amico Restaurant
By Andrew Zimmern
After 22 years, and untold droves of ecstatic diners, D'Amico Cucina served its last meal on Saturday evening. This morning, less than 48 hours later, it was announced that the Fratelli D’Amico are taking over the food service at the Chambers Hotel. Jean-George Vongerichten is out, and D’Amico and Partners takes over later this summer. Plans and a name for the new eatery will be forthcoming around July 20th, according to Richard D’Amico.
This is great news for fans of the Cucina crew who—despite turning out a stellar, world-class product in every sense of the word throuhgout the last few years—have found numbers dropping and prospects for a revival dimming. The culprits: the new stadium, increased competition, the dimming of the fine-dining fire, the economy, etc. The new eatery will be Italian, Occhiato will stay on as chef, etc., etc.
Soooooo . . . why is JGV and his crew leaving Dodge? Well, let's remember a couple of facts: JGV is a restaurant company, hired by a local businessman (Ralph Burnet) to run the food-service side of his hotel operation. For example, Manny’s performs the same function at the W, the Graves has its own people and manages its own food service. Museums also farm out food service operations, which is how Puck and his people came to be at the Walker. As leases such as these reach renewal status, or as other thresholds of the deal allow, the relationship is re-evaluated and either moves forward, dissolves, or the terms change.
Here’s my guess: Term expires for Chambers Kitchen, or a deliverable was missed by JGV, or a number was not what it should be. One of those scenarios happened, and the Chambers Hotel smartly made a move rather than allowing Chambers Kitchen to die on the vine any further than it already had. The food had gone downhill and become uneven, the crowd and the scene at the bar was not what ownership had envisioned. JGV himself was not a presence here in the least, and my people tell me that the numbers (gross revenue, net profits, etc.) were all falling. What’s more, and this is important, the net profit at the end of the day needs to be divided between the restaurant and the hotel, so success from a dollar standpoint is more important than a single owner-operated eatery would need it to be. There are more mouths to feed, so to speak, and expectations are high. I would venture to say that D’Amico and Partners will find it easier to manage those numbers than JGV’s peeps did all the way from NYC. I also think that the success of the Manny’s move to the W from the Hyatt gave Ralph a good indication that in some cases, “going local” is the way to go. The difference, however, is that the D'Amicos are not opening a Cucina in the Chambers.
All that being said, as a diner, I am happy to see The Fratelli still keeping a downtown Italian presence in Minneapolis. As an industry voyeur, I am dying to find out the dirt on why JGV turned tail so quickly. Did they not want to fight for their turf? Did Burnet aggressively push them out in a way that is not being talked about? Interesting. But the big question is this: Thousands mourned the passing of Cucina . . . does anyone care that Chambers Kitchen is going? Not that we aren’t sad any eatery closes or that people might lose jobs or that a meal there a year ago wasn’t great . . . but do we CARE at all that it closes? Not me. I had higher hopes for a JGV restaurant here in MSP.
This is great news for fans of the Cucina crew who—despite turning out a stellar, world-class product in every sense of the word throuhgout the last few years—have found numbers dropping and prospects for a revival dimming. The culprits: the new stadium, increased competition, the dimming of the fine-dining fire, the economy, etc. The new eatery will be Italian, Occhiato will stay on as chef, etc., etc.
Soooooo . . . why is JGV and his crew leaving Dodge? Well, let's remember a couple of facts: JGV is a restaurant company, hired by a local businessman (Ralph Burnet) to run the food-service side of his hotel operation. For example, Manny’s performs the same function at the W, the Graves has its own people and manages its own food service. Museums also farm out food service operations, which is how Puck and his people came to be at the Walker. As leases such as these reach renewal status, or as other thresholds of the deal allow, the relationship is re-evaluated and either moves forward, dissolves, or the terms change.
Here’s my guess: Term expires for Chambers Kitchen, or a deliverable was missed by JGV, or a number was not what it should be. One of those scenarios happened, and the Chambers Hotel smartly made a move rather than allowing Chambers Kitchen to die on the vine any further than it already had. The food had gone downhill and become uneven, the crowd and the scene at the bar was not what ownership had envisioned. JGV himself was not a presence here in the least, and my people tell me that the numbers (gross revenue, net profits, etc.) were all falling. What’s more, and this is important, the net profit at the end of the day needs to be divided between the restaurant and the hotel, so success from a dollar standpoint is more important than a single owner-operated eatery would need it to be. There are more mouths to feed, so to speak, and expectations are high. I would venture to say that D’Amico and Partners will find it easier to manage those numbers than JGV’s peeps did all the way from NYC. I also think that the success of the Manny’s move to the W from the Hyatt gave Ralph a good indication that in some cases, “going local” is the way to go. The difference, however, is that the D'Amicos are not opening a Cucina in the Chambers.
All that being said, as a diner, I am happy to see The Fratelli still keeping a downtown Italian presence in Minneapolis. As an industry voyeur, I am dying to find out the dirt on why JGV turned tail so quickly. Did they not want to fight for their turf? Did Burnet aggressively push them out in a way that is not being talked about? Interesting. But the big question is this: Thousands mourned the passing of Cucina . . . does anyone care that Chambers Kitchen is going? Not that we aren’t sad any eatery closes or that people might lose jobs or that a meal there a year ago wasn’t great . . . but do we CARE at all that it closes? Not me. I had higher hopes for a JGV restaurant here in MSP.
© 2008 MSP Communications, Inc. All rights reserved
Psst... I believe it's Burnet, one "t". My maiden name is Burnett so this difference is always glaring. Definitely interested to hear the reason for the fallout, if the public is ever afforded that information!
Posted by: Maggie on June 29, 2009 at 1:08 PM
I predict that the D'Amicos go the direction of Mario Batali's Otto Enoteca. Fresh ingredients, great meats & cheeses ala carte, good varied wine list and $12 wood-fired pizzas in a fashionable but casual environ. Darn near impossible to do fine dining these days.
Posted by: geoff on June 29, 2009 at 1:19 PM
I will miss a couple of things about Chambers Kitchen:
1. Pineapple Mojitos - so good!
2. They did a great job with their tofu dishes. I have a feeling that we won't get that from D'Amico...
Posted by: Red Pepper on June 29, 2009 at 3:31 PM
As one of the opening Manager for Chambers Hotel , it was no secret that JGV was very reluctant to explore in our areas. It was Ralph who aggressively pursued him to come to Minneapolis. We had to drive him to Eat Street where he visited many Chinese markets to investigate what kind of ingredients would be available in the area. His training crew was very intrusive to say the least. Although great training for the opening staff, it was so intense that a only but a few kept their jobs past the 90 day probation period.
JG himself only came to oversee the operations twice in that period.
I will miss his food, luckily, one of the opening sue Chefs who was trained by JGV himself is now the Executive Chef at Faurpaughs in St Paul. You will find many great similarities in his dishes. (with a more local flare)
In regars to D'amico coming into the space? Sad news... not that I dont enjoy their food, but we needed another Italian Restaurant as much as we need another steak house...
Posted by: Juanluca on June 29, 2009 at 4:27 PM
Juanluca maybe your improper "gramner" had something to do with it. I'm looking forward to the new venue at the Chambers Hotel! I'm guessing the team at D'amico isn't sending people out to New York to eat pasta two times a day to come up with another " steak house idea".Sorry you didn't know when to jump ship buddy!
Posted by: andrew on June 29, 2009 at 10:18 PM
Another stupid move by the D’Amico monopoly. They’ve turned into a restaurant empire that continually fails to impress me and the fact that they are trying to fill Jean-Georges’s shoes is just plain stupid. Obviously we don’t have all the facts but the Chambers should’ve tried to get a young hot local chef or import their own. This move just downgraded the Chambers brand by visitors and locals alike. It’s a sad day for the real foodies of Minneapolis– I’ll be taking my hard earned cash and empty stomach to New York more often as a result. Feel the same way? Then join my facebook group "Foodies against D'Amicos" @ http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=95120574226&ref=nf
Posted by: Nate on June 30, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Nate,
Sorry to here about your termination from D'Amico. Better luck in your next endeavor.
Posted by: Gin on June 30, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Excellent. Now eating at Chambers will actually be an enjoyable experience.
Oh, snap.
Posted by: Alexis on June 30, 2009 at 1:17 PM
D'Amico Cucina was open for 22 years, and the Chambers what 4??? I think that says plenty about the differences in quality between the 2.
Posted by: Anonymous on June 30, 2009 at 11:05 PM
Gin, I never worked for D'Amico. You are thinking of someone else.
Posted by: Nate on July 1, 2009 at 12:25 PM
Nate, Good to know. I'll just have to speculate where your bitterness and lack of professionalism comes from.
Posted by: Gin on July 1, 2009 at 3:27 PM
I went there 3-4 times over the years, it was progessively worse, and whoever said the tofu dishes were good? I have to amicably disagree, the last one I had was downright awful - a huge - HUGE - lump of super soft tofu with a thick fried shell, like something you would get at the state fair. Only with less taste, and worse sauce.
So needless to say I am not sorry to see it go, but I will say a D'Amicos in my mind is a step down, not only for the Chambers but for Minneapolis and its quest to be a foodie town. As a fairly recent transplant from Chicago, and plenty of foodie friends in NYC, Cali, etc., no one outside this city knows the D'Amico name, and if they do, they consider it on par with the restaurants run by a Lettuce Entertain You - i.e. your run-of-the-mill local franchises.
I just do not see a local, fairly unknown operation like D'Amico's (who is now known more for their "& Sons" cheaper chains than for Campiello or their better restaurants of times past) being a "draw" for tourists. The JGV name WAS a draw, good food or not.
I hope the Chambers doesn't go the way of the Ivy and it's offerings, which seem to be stagnating more and more every day.
Too bad they didn't get a Lucia's, or Spoon River - something that is local yet known and respected outside the Twin Cities.
Posted by: Beth on July 1, 2009 at 4:05 PM
beth can i have some of your pills!
Posted by: want some of beths pills on July 2, 2009 at 12:26 PM
I'm sad to see Jean Georges leave Minneapolis. I love his restaurants in New York, but, honestly, I don't know how many local diners had heard of him.
In fairness to D'Amico, let's not forget that they were the starting ground of many great chefs/restauranteurs in the Twin Cities. Tim (this year's James Beard Award Winner). Josh. Isaac. Seth. Just to name a few. They have, as an organization, made great contributions to the local culinary scene.
Posted by: Geri on July 2, 2009 at 12:27 PM
Gin, As a consumer I have a right to voice my option loudly. I don't work in your industry, you're the "professional", and if you can't take the critisicm grow thicker skin. I have every right to be bitter about the lack of effort on the Chamber's part to do something inovative for this city; the fact they are following "Manny’s move to the W" speaks to this.
Anonymous, You equate "quality" as the length of time a restaurant has been in business??? Seriously??? I was pretty sad when Totino's closed on Central Avenue after being open for 56 years. (http://tinyurl.com/kw3cvc) At least I can still buy Totino's frozen pizza rolls at the supermarket.
Posted by: Nate on July 2, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Chambers by JGV will be missed. I was very surprised that it lasted as long, especially since this city would never be the right demographic for any of the JGV concepts
Posted by: tlizzy on July 2, 2009 at 5:28 PM
Nate, take it down a notch. You'll be okay. Look, I don't care if you love, hate or are anywhere in between on the D'Amico's. What I think is crazy is how worked up you're getting. For the love of god, you started a facebook site dedicated to your hatered! Up your meds! Also, look at your comparison, 56 years for a pizza joint vs. 22 years for Italian fine dining? Is that a fair comparison? Do you compare Pizza Hut to Black Sheep? Just be honest with yourself and all of us as to your bitterness. Did your girlfriend get carded and you were mad? Were they booked on February 13th when you called for a reservation on Valentines Day? Seriously, we want to know.
Posted by: Gin on July 2, 2009 at 11:12 PM
Oh! My , I thought this was the land of Minnesota nice. Can you hear yourselves guys. Whatever happened to being able to speak your mind and be tolerated....
Posted by: tlizzy on July 3, 2009 at 6:30 AM
While y'all were bickering, both Morton's and Bellanotte closed their doors.
Posted by: fancyman on July 4, 2009 at 8:42 AM
thats intresting about bellanotte, i didn't think profits mattered when your main goal is laundering money.
Posted by: wildchildfromthenorth on July 6, 2009 at 1:41 PM
Gin, There's a big difference between voicing dissatisfaction and hatred; so while I dislike these events I surely don't hate D'Amico or their employees. I've already stated the reasons for my opinion so quit trying to read between the lines. I'm upset JGV is closing and don't care to dine at another D'Amico establishment. 26 people have already joined my facebook group so clearly there are others that feel the same way.
Posted by: Nate on July 7, 2009 at 9:57 AM
Regarding those saying they will miss JGV's food in the Twin Cities, I just can't imagine you ate at the same restaurant I did. Every meal I had at Chamber's Kitchen (about 5 dinners) was adequate, but having eaten at Mercer Kitchen, Chamber's Kitchen felt, at best; phoned in and at worst; insultingly pedestrian. Presentation was always suburb and ingredients fresh, but every dish felt safe and boring. If I had my choice between it and every other restaurant in it's category in this town, I would have picked all of them except perhaps 2021. I don't particularly care what replaces it, I just hope that whatever does has a executive that lives within a commute of his or her restaurant.
Also, I hope they get rid of the Damien Hirst if they keep the dining room downstairs.
Posted by: David Foureyes on July 8, 2009 at 2:03 PM
Chambers NYC is going in a different direction. Big upgrade http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/08/07/david-chang-confirms-chambers-hotel-rumor/
Posted by: geoff on August 7, 2009 at 3:28 PM
What a disappointment! Stopped in to check out the new digs at Chambers last night following Mary Poppins. At 10:20 p.m. we walked right in, and 7 minutes later, we walked right back out with not a word or eye contact from a single employee. I was even so bold as to rifle through their menus to be sure that they offered dessert and speciality drinks (yes!) and the 2 bartenders seemed to be quite busy with the single patron at the bar. Not off to a very good start at capturing that post-theatre business!!!
Posted by: Laura on September 4, 2009 at 9:23 AM