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August 21, 2008, 9:21 AM

Cucina Italiana

By Andrew Zimmern

My friend Pete sent me an email this morning. He asked me what the following restaurants had in common after seeing them listed in another local publication:

Campiello

—D'Amico Cucina
La Grolla

—Luci Ancora
Prima

—Ristorante Luci
Zelo

Well, according to Pete’s info, this other mag said they all were listed in Zagat's America's 1,000 Top Italian Restaurants

This crap constantly amazes me. Who are the Zagat people relying on for that list? Diners? Are they culled from supposed experts’ lists? What human being in their right mind could possibly think that La Grolla, Luci Ancora, Ristorante Luci, Prima, or Zelo are among the best 1,000 Italian restaurants in the USA? This is not because they couldn’t be, but how do you compare them with other potential Italian eateries outside of our city? Who is expert enough to say? Now, what I can tell you is I Nonni is a better Italian restaurant than La Grolla, Luci Ancora, Ristorante Luci, Prima, or Zelo—and Broder’s is as well. Zelo is not even an Italian restaurant!

My favorite Italian restaurant, simply for the quality of food, is D’Amico Cucina. I adore the simple and honest food at I Nonni; my only wish is that they hire competent staff who aren’t seemingly working nights their senior year in high school, and the room needs a major makeover (it has always reminded me of the Parade of Homes), but the food rocks, and the wine list is second to none.

Am I alone in thinking that more so than almost any other category of ethnic dining, we have a dearth of ‘quality’ Italian eateries in this town? Cucina, Broders, Punch, Campiello, I Nonni, and a few others offer food that is respectably reminiscent of true Italian cuisine. But every time I travel, I am reminded that despite so many opinions to the contrary, there are mostly bad Italo-American restaurants in this town. Simple, seasonal food made with impeccably sourced ingredients is the hallmarks of Italian cuisine. What doesn’t fall into that category would be some of the wonderfully complex, fully flavored peasant dishes that haunt any food fan’s dreams if they have ever traveled through Italy. Am I off base here?

****

For those who are interested, the new mightily expanded season of Bizarre Foods begins on September 9.

September 9: Phuket
September 16: Sicily
September 23: Goa
September 30: Samoa
October 7: Paris
October 14: Los Angeles
October 21: Halloween Special
October 28: Hawaii
November 4: No new programming, I will be out voting that day.
November 11: Ethiopia
November 18: Maine
November 25: Holiday
December 9: Uganda

Comments

I couldn't agree more. Who are these people that make that decision? My wife and I rarely eat out Italian, since she is, and she is a great cook.
When we do it is always in the city at places like Rosebud, and La Scarola or Sabatino's. Most suburban Italian dining is nothing special. So your town is not alone in the bad Italian-American fare

AZ, you got this answer from a Zagat Representative on this blog a few months back.

Zagat members can rate their experiences at different restaurants that they dine at and those results are pooled into a score for the restaurant. I'm sure that for this list, Zagat pulled the 1,000 highest rated restaurants listed under "Italian". I'm not surprised we had a few. If you think about it, 50 states in the U.S. If you just divide that out, that means 20 Italian restaurants per state. I realize the East Coast should have a higher proportion (New York or Boston), but not surprised that some of our restaurants made the cut.

I would guess a majority of the people who use the Zagat guide are travelers/visitors to the Twin Cities. Frankly, Il Nonni may be a great restaurant. But it is in a crappy location in terms of easy access for a tourist. Sorry, there isn't a lot going on in Mendota Heights that I would be sure to take people to see. Broder's likely doesn't see a lot of visitor traffic either as it is first-come first serve and they don't want to wait the hour or longer. I know I've had out-of-town friends veto it in the past.

The Zagat representative asked you and readers of this blog to go to Zagat and rate restaurants in this area to improve the accuracy of their ratings. It does cost money to join, but if you're going to let their ratings ruin your day, perhaps it would be money well spent and the two-cents put in might give a more accurate picture.

Instead of complaining about restaurants who didn't make it, congratulations to the owners and staff of Campiello, D'Amico Cucina, La Grolla, Luci Ancora, Prima, Ristorante Luci, and Zelo on your inclusion on the list. You all are doing something right and deserve applause, even if some people are upset that their friends/favorites didn't make it.

lists exist solely to stimulate interest / conversation / debate / page views. Your post today is a perfect case in point. end of discussion.

I would think the dearth of Italian immigrants in this area has something to do with it.

I don't know Cucina chef John Occhiato personally, but we were both raised an hour or so north of NYC where there is a significant Italian population (not pronounced EYE-talian) and no shortage of excellent, family-owned restaurants. I am sure he would confirm a huge difference between MN and CT/NY in the demand for true Italian food and less of a focus on the Bucas, Olive Gardens, and Maggianos of the world, although unfortunately they have had an impact there too.

Here here to D’Amico Cucina and Broders. They are definitely my top two favorite Italian joints in the Twin Cities. I also like the clam sauce at Al Vento.

PS - I see that Scott Pampuch is mc-ing the MN Cooks stage at the fair next Tuesday. I thought you did a great job last year, AZ, and I'm looking forward to this year's event.

I have to give I Nonni the nod for best Italian in the city. Broders has the best Pasta, hands down, but I Nonni takes the all-around cake.

I hear the comments on Al Vento, but the last time I went their, the heralded "Mother Sauce" was waaay too salty. I've had some good meals there, but couldn't believe the salt on the last round.

Nice!!! I was stalking you on this blog waiting for Bizarre Foods news. I can't wait! :)

AZ, Totally agree with you. I Nonni rocks, service so-so, wine incredible. Il Vesco Vino has a wonderful setting, great service, outstanding patio but the food just needs to come up to I Nonni's level. I must mention though that the last two times I went to Pazzaluna, I was pleasantly surprised on the improvement of their menu and food quality plus the staff is knowledge and I would say a good % of the staff is from the original days. Oh, how I long for the old Chet's Taverna. That was fabulous.

Hello Big A
Sarah here, big fan of yours... I wanted to throw my hat into the ring... I am a hairdresser...which you do not need...but if on your travels you need a perfect application of sunblock on your bald head please consider me for your crew. I am also willing to carry luggage I expect the next season, now that you are big time, you will have costume changes to rival Sir Elton John!! Someone has carry and press your silk gowns...oh could it be me please I need to see the world and eat too!!!!

Many years ago, before you had your own show and MSP Mag spot, I waited on you at one of these mentioned Italian Restaurants. After reading your comment about the I Nonni staff, it is clear that your respect for waitstaff still has not improved. What a shame. You were one of the rudest and most ungrateful customers I have ever had the pleasure of serving. The people with whom you were dining were quite embarrassed by your behavior and returned to leave me a generous tip once you had departed. You may know a bit about food, but I wish that us Minnesotans had chosen a more worthy individual to become a local celebrity.

AZ- You say there will be no new episode of Bizarre Foods on Nov 4th because you "will be out voting that day"?

Aren't the shows taped allowing you to both film and episode and vote?

Dear Sarah,

I'm Big A, he's Lil' A. Come on, you should know that by now!

Big A(lexis)

P.S. to Lil' A: I'd consider hiring Sarah if I were you. She cuts, colors and styles my hair, plus she's tight with J-May the eyebrow wiz.

Well, Zagat isn't the only one that can't get it right--read about how Wine Spectator was fooled into giving a non-existent Italian restaurant it's wine award!

http://www.deepglamour.net/deep_glamour/2008/08/award-winning-r.html

PM

yes.. maybe that it..

good post

I watched you show on my way back from Chicago on Jet Blue. Do you any tapes out I can purchase? I would love to buy some for Christmas.

Thanks,

maria

i'll love to buy the video in sicily. but i dont know where can i found it (september 16, 2008, 3 season)

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