Tom Broder
By Andrew Zimmern
Tom Broder passed away over the weekend—very sad news. He left behind a family and a business that many of us have come to know throughout the years. All our prayers and thoughts go out to Molly and the rest of the Broder family as well as to all the employees and extended family of their store and restaurant.
What many people may not realize is that without Tom’s leadership the Twin Cities, the neighborhood restaurant scene would look very different than it does today—and not for the better. Tom was a key player in the expansion of laws allowing for smaller eateries to serve beer and wine, and he was a visionary when it came to serving true regional Italian food to throngs of Minnesota diners.
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I hope everyone knows that my pal Seth Bixby Daugherty, retired restaurant über-chef (Damico Cucina, Cosmos, etc.) and former Food & Wine magazine 10 Best winner, finally has a website for his charitable efforts. Realfoodinitiatives.com is now live. Check it out!
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Speaking of websites, there are dozens of whole hog chow sites emerging these days as popular destinations on the web. I like Nose To Tail At Home. How many of you are really eating this way?
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Rowley Leigh brings up a great point about porchetta in one of his latest pieces online. He is speaking to a London audience, but the point he makes is a good one:
“I may not be well qualified to talk about street food: I haven’t been to a street market in Singapore or wandered around the barrios of Mexico City. I have, however, strolled around a few markets in Tuscany and Umbria and can say porchetta is the best street food I know. It beats hamburgers or hot dogs and I can’t imagine why some fast food entrepreneur does not pick up on the idea . . . ”
Porchetta is a whole suckling pig, boned out, and then filled with its own offal and seasonings, such as rosemary and fennel. It is roasted slowly for hours, sliced thin, and eaten on buns or pieces of wax paper or taken home and eaten in privacy where neatness counts. Now I have eaten in more street markets in Southeast Asia, Latin barrios, and African souks than most folks, and I can say unequivocally that Leigh is right. Porchetta is one of the kings of the takeaway food world, and it is in the category of foods that I think is ideally suited to Midwestern tastes.
Rotisserie snout-to-tail (see how I am spinning this all together?) cooking methods are popular all over the world, and yet here they are just beginning to catch on. I think Minnesotans should lead the charge. We love roasty, porky foods, and I think that rotisserie stands would be big hits at the State Fair (Schumacher’s has one for his pork racks!), on city streets in both towns, and at city and county fairs. It is odd that we don’t have more of them considering how popular the rotisserie chicken has become in local supermarkets.
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I noticed some comments on this site re the empty Zander Café spot on Selby Avenue and the inviting home it might provide for talent such as Doug Flicker. The old Fhima’s space, which was vacant, is now spoken for by Pop!, which will be moving there in late summer. Where else could an entrepreneur find a great home for their restaurant? I still think someone could make a lot of noise on Grand Avenue in the Acropol Inn space next door to Grand Ole Creamery even though they are still open for business. That place seems dead as a doornail. Here’s a question, what’s the best available turnkey location for a new restaurant in the Twin Cities, and what’s the best space currently occupied that could become available any day now?
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Now that the construction is almost complete at Lake and Lyndale in Minneapolis and hundreds of new high end apartments are set to open in the next 6 months in the surrounding two blocks, I think the Machu Pichu space would be a great opportunity. I thought the Herkimer folks were taking it but have seen no action there and just boarded windows. Too bad the city built a huge bus shelter right outside, thus hurting the opportunity for plenty of outdoor tables. The empty corner near Bryant Lake Bowl would be another good empty location. Take it before Caribou rides in...
Posted by: Red Pepper on July 8, 2008 at 9:25 AM
What about the empty space on 50th across from Tejas. It has parking ramps all around it, and every space in the area seems to boom.
Posted by: Mike on July 8, 2008 at 12:20 PM
Although it is the basement of a house, there is a little store front on the south side of the Riverview Theater at 38th St and 42nd Ave. It's tiny, but look how popular Colossal is. It would need a lot of work, but it's the location that should be desirable.
Posted by: NoviceConnoisseur on July 8, 2008 at 2:01 PM
Who needs a restaurant?...
Bryn Mawr
Bryn Mawr
Bryn Mawr
Posted by: geoff on July 8, 2008 at 10:25 PM
Turnkey: Maybe someone could restore the old Table of Contents on Hennepin to its former glory (the less said about Dish the better)?
Existing: How about actual food (and service) at Joe's Garage?
Azia could stand a reinvention, if Thom is listening...tired.
Sadly, there may be no hope for the Tiburon/Temple space.
Posted by: WatchityRatchet on July 8, 2008 at 11:33 PM
What about the Auriga space? It even has parking.
Posted by: PM on July 9, 2008 at 7:33 AM
What do you mean that Pop! is moving?!!! Are you talking about the neighborhood restaurant on Johnson Street in Northeast? Say it ain't so!!!
Posted by: Firerev on July 9, 2008 at 5:42 PM
Pop! is not leaving Northeast Mpls. We are just adding a second location in Downtown St. Paul. We appreciate all the great support we have in Northeast.
Posted by: Clark on July 9, 2008 at 5:56 PM
Thanks for answering, Clark. And so quickly! I got a little scared there. You're such a valuable asset to our neighborhood. Good luck on your new venture.
Posted by: Firerev on July 9, 2008 at 9:27 PM
The old Armstrong's space on 42nd ave and 34th st in Longfellow is prime location for an upscale neighborhood diner/bistro/bar. Longfellow could always use another nice neighborhood spot...
Posted by: Silvio on July 10, 2008 at 10:14 AM
I second the comment about the location in Longfellow. I am also excited to hear that Tom Pham has announced that he will be moving forward with Mix in the old Molly Quinns. This had been rumored many months back but great to hear it is now moving forward. Construction on Lake is now over on the Eastern end, so many interesting buildings in great locations waiting for the right idea.
Posted by: Chris on July 11, 2008 at 2:38 PM
Would someone please take over the Cafe Havana space and do it justice? That front room is amazing.
Posted by: Spleeneriffic on July 13, 2008 at 10:31 AM
Along the lines of the Cafe Havana space, someone wrestle the former Bobino space away from local dipsh*t John Rymarczyk or whatever his name is. While I understand our neighborhood isn't really in need of another restaurant, seeing this space vacant is almost as heartbreaking as realizing he'd sully the joint by being in charge of it if it did open. That's saying a lot considering it is the former home of a sex dungeon.
If you ever want to know where I'm coming from with my distaste for this guy, send me an email, I have a funny couple stories.
Posted by: David Foureyes on July 13, 2008 at 12:51 PM
How about the former Goodfellows/Scotties on 7th locale? That has historic designation and is a stunning interior for a great restaurant. My other choice is the former Linguini & Bob's in Butler Square which is cursed by the sports bar strip but is still a great space. Are the old Urban Wildlife or Chez Bananna's spots taken either? And as long as we're in the Warehouse district, a property that has been vacant for decades (reportedly for the tax break) that would be great for a restaurant, is the old building across the street from Nami (floral supply?). But would someone, ANYONE, please open a higher-end Chinese or Hong Kong restaurant DT Minneapolis instead of yet another Sushi place?
Posted by: Claire on July 15, 2008 at 11:33 AM
Mike re: the space next to Riverview actually used to be home to Kee Mee Chow Mein which moved from across the street, its former home next to the shoe repair, for a short period of time, so it actually has housed a restaurant (late 80's). They had great fried rice, great family too. But I've thought for years it would be a great spot for an ice cream parlor, maybe a little Izzy's outpost?
Posted by: Claire on July 15, 2008 at 11:41 AM
The problem is that the financial side of the restaurant industry in the Twin Cities is in terrible shape right now. Unless you are convinced you can take business away from other places or have the marketing heft of a Parasole or D'Amico or are a name chef now is not a good time to open a restaurant. People are going out to eat less because of the price of gas and there is no getting around that fact. In classic economic terms you would describe the situation as overcapacity, we need fewer restaurants before we can have more.
Posted by: anonymous on July 16, 2008 at 12:41 PM
I second the votes for the former Goodfellow's location on 7th Street and that Bryn Mawr is under served.
Posted by: Dante on July 16, 2008 at 2:00 PM