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June 10, 2008, 1:12 PM

Something’s Right If Everybody’s Wrong

By Andrew Zimmern

Below are the winners of the major James Beard Awards . . . ouch.

Let’s recap the most outrageous surprise: Despite the fact that I voted for Mike Lata at FIG, Bob Stehling is a choice you can’t argue with. Same with most of the other winners, some of who, such as Carrie Nahabedian, are make goods from years past when they should have won. Patrick Connolly is doing great things at Radius in Boston, and my meal there last September (my third time there but first while PC was doing the cooking) was amazing. It is my wife’s fave spot in Boston, but Rob Evans at Hugo’s in Portland, Maine, should have won the top prize. Just my opinion.

Many of the chefs and restaurateurs I voted for ended up winning, but I still can’t help but feel that chefs in smaller states and cities that are less traveled by the voting members get the short end of the stick. Which is why when the Twin Cities moved out of Chicago’s region, I thought a local chef winning the award would be easy. In fact, I thought we would win two awards. I was only half right. I knew that Gavin Kaysen would win the newcomer award; he is a talented young man and is also, drum roll, a locally raised chef. Congrats GK, you deserved the JBA! And with all the respect in the world to Adam Siegel, who deserves a congrats for wining in our region, he is not half the cook that Tim, Alex, or Isaac are. I was shocked to learn he won. In fact, I would go as far as to say that Bluestem in KC and our three local eateries whose chefs got nominated are all better experiences than Lake Park Bistro. I am convinced that any judge who ate at all five restaurants would be hard-pressed to make any case that Siegel was the best chef out of the five nominated, so I am left to believe that many of the judges simply got forced into voting for LPB and Siegel because they had eaten there throughout the last umpteen years it has been open and had not dined at the other nominated chefs’ restaurants. I’ve got to figure out a way to make this work a little better. Any thoughts? Also, as much as I love David Chang’s three restaurants, Wiley Dufresne should have won the JBA in NYC.

But, none of those shockers are half as disturbing as the fact that Lisa made it into the final three for tomorrow’s Top Chef finale!!! C’mon! She was not even one of the six best cooks in the competition. Anyway, as much as I have come to admire some of Richard’s dishes, I am rooting for Stephanie to win, and I think she will.

2008 James Beard Award Winners

Outstanding Restaurateur: 
Joe Bastianich/Mario Batali
, Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca

Outstanding Chef: 
Grant Achatz, Alinea, Chicago

Outstanding Restaurant: 
Gramercy Tavern, NYC, 
Danny Meyer

Best New Restaurant: 
Central Michel Richard, Washington, DC
Chef/Owner: Michel Richard

Rising Star Chef of the Year: 
Gavin Kaysen, 
Café Boulud, NYC

Outstanding Pastry Chef: 
Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson 
Tartine Bakery, 
San Francisco

Cookbook of the Year: The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Ten Speed Press)

Best Newspaper Feature Writing About Restaurants And/Or Chefs: 
Brett Anderson, The Times-Picayune, "Landmark Decisions: A Five-Part Series Chronicling the Ruin and Restoration of a Classic New Orleans Restaurant."

Best Website Focusing On Food, Beverage, Restaurant, Or Nutrition: 
Epicurious

Best Multimedia Writing On Food: 
Josh Ozersky and Daniel Maurer, New York, "Grub Street"

Best Television Food Show, National and Local:Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie

For more winners, see complete results here.

Comments

was it me, or was that whole post in Latin?

"Lisa made it into the final three for tomorrow’s Top Chef finale!!! C’mon! She was not even one of the six best cooks in the competition."

I am so in agreement with you! She is such a sour puss, and none of her food appeals to me. I like both Richard & Stephanie, so am torn as to who should win. He tends to be more adventurous and edgy, while she is consistently good, and they both seem like good people.

I like that Lisa is still in the competition for the sole reason that pisses so many people off. I never liked her either but now I'm rooting for her because it brings out the over-emotional comments by people who are judging an over-edited show about food you can't even taste let alone get a good look at. Keep it up!

Robbed, we were.

I suppose the consolation is that we don't have to live in stinky old Milwaukee.

I concur with my dear friend Frenchy. Minneapolis is becoming the Brooklyn Dodgers of the food world...there is always next year.

Did Dave Chang win the best chef award or best press agent award? C'mon, voters...
Don't get me wrong, I think that his food is always great, but I don't think that he is delivering anything exceptional. New York city!?!? The mecca of dining in the US?!?!?

I'm anxious to try Central Michel Richard. His restaurant Citronelle is a perfect example of the service and quality that a fine dining restaurant should strive toward.

Although it is disappointing that none of the Minneapolis chefs won, I was thrilled to see that we have three very high caliber chefs able to get the nod. This would not have been the case ten years ago!

Simple Soldier - I have eaten at Both of David Chang's restaurants.I have also had the priveledge to dine at two of the other nominees in NYC -The Modern and WD-50. I would put Chang's roasted duck ramen up bite-for-bite next to the dishes at either of the others any day. Sometimes simple, clean, classic flavors make a larger impact than any agar-agar sculptures or foie gras foam ever could. Not that Chef Dufresne or Chef Kreuther do not deserve their kudos. They certainly do! But I was not as tempted to embarass myself by licking a bowl clean as much as I was at Momofuku by either of their tasting menus - common decency aside! They all have their place. But saying that David Chang does not deserve his accolades because he esentially owns noodle bars is just short sighted. Congrats to all nominees irregardless! We are proud to have you in our community!

I have to agree with Simple Soldier. We liked both Momofuku and Saam but were not wowed. His food is simple, but for us it suffered too much from the hyper flavored hit you over the head approach. Nothing subtle there. Didn't dine at WD-50, but had a much more enlightening experience at Degustation. I don't think Chang deserves all the hype he gets. He's good, but not fantastic.

Then again, food's about as personal as it gets.

Don't get me wrong, Sara, I know Dave and he is a great cook, and I think he would even agree with me. Every bite of food I have ever eaten at his restaurants has been delicious, but I don't think that his food demonstrates the qualities of a great chef. If he would have gotten an award for restauranteur of the year, I would have agreed with that.

Adam Siegel of Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro? Really? Check out his menu http://www.lakeparkbistro.com/docs/menu.html

Compare to the menus of his competitors at my blog: http://dishtc.blogspot.com

Andrew, do you remember any specifics of what you had at BLPBistro when you dined there?

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