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May 20, 2008, 8:52 AM

Home Sweet Home

By Andrew Zimmern

Having been home for a week or two means that I have had a chance to get some sleep, eat a few home-cooked meals, and spend time with the family. It also means that I get a chance to reacquaint myself with a few local haunts and check out more of the local food scene than I can when I am 5,000 miles away.

A couple of quick notes…

Lurcat is awesome. Many restaurants fail to slide into their next act as gracefully and as stylishly as this Loring Park stunner. We ate there last week and were also there at a party the month before (Amazingly, the tuna with preserved lemon is better as an appetizer at a catered event in the private rooms than it is as a dinner entrée in the restaurant.). The food was superb (Adam King puts out a truly tasty, consistent product), Molly is a great server, and the view from the dining room is one of the nicest in town.

Rudy Maxa’s new TV show, Rudy Maxa's World, is superb. Check it out on Saturdays at 2 p.m. on PBS. We stopped by his premiere party last week, and I have to say that Nick and Eddie’s major-domo, Doug Anderson, made my night by fetching me a toasted bialy from the kitchen and schmeering it with the best whitefish salad in town. Rudy was in fine fettle that night, and the crowd was packed to the rafters checking out the clips on the big screen and catching up with each other. When I was pulling fourteen-hour days in kitchens a few lifetimes ago, I wanted to be Rudy Maxa when I grew up. He’s a great journalist, an impressive companion under any circumstances, a sensational human being, and with another hit on his hands, he continues to inspire me. Rudy Maxa’s World is also shot in HD and looks great on the big TV in your rumpus room.

****

I had dinner with my wife at Morton’s, and the food is as good as ever, including those sensational crab cakes. Que Nha on University Ave in St. Paul was the site of a long-anticipated catch-up dinner with my best friend Aaron who had never eaten there. We stuffed ourselves silly on grilled shrimp and beef rolls, spicy chicken with onion, and combination rice hot pot casserole, which might be one of the top five best Asian menu items in the Twin Cities. On our way out the door, we grabbed a pair of avocado milk shakes, which are hard to finish after a big meal, but a few pulls off the straw were a tasty way to end the day.

And yes, I am also as stunned as you are that I have still not dined at the Strip Club or Heidi’s, two restaurants that I am eager to check out. But when I come home, I only get a few nights free, and it just didn’t work out this time. BTW.

****

Speaking of stunned, am I the only one in town who didn’t know that The Rake went under? And why do they think the online version can stay in business if the magazine couldn’t? Seems as if they are carrying a mighty large payroll for a website based on the byline count. How long do you give it? Does anyone read the online mag, and why? I am interested in hearing from anyone who regularly does. Speaking of web reads, I am now officially addicted to Brian Lambert’s blog on this site; his piece last week about the Stribune predicament was informative and laugh-out-loud funny.

****

I attended the third annual Cuisinart conclave at the Walker Art Center. It was awesome, a big sellout, and the food was superb. Huge shout out to Becky Pohlad and her committee, Wolfgang Puck and his team, and Scott Winter, the WAC genius of many hats. Some cool stuff went down. Scott Pampuch and his crew of attendees won the aluminum chef competition. In forty-five minutes, they made a bevy of compelling dishes featuring eggs and beef (the secret ingredients), and Rick Kimmes of Oceanaire guided his crew of partiers to an impressive second place finish on my scorecard.

Pampuch scored big points with the judges (Wolfgang and I) with his Meyer lemon hollandaise sauce and his house-cured pancetta that he smuggled in to the event and crisped, serving it on a poached egg. All his food was perfectly seasoned, and his restaurant, Corner Table, should be on everyone’s must-go list if it isn’t already. Wolf and I cooked together last week in Los Angeles, and I have gotten to hang out with him on my last few visits to LA this year. This guy is a rock star in every sense. He is unflappable in the dining room, hysterical to share a meal with, a doting dad, a cook of tremendous skill (often overlooked, BTW), and a global presence who would rather hang in the trenches with his troops, as he did most of the night on Friday, than schmooze it up with strangers despite his appetite for showmanship. The highlight of the evening for me, as it always is, was the awesome display of pyrotechnical wizardry that Sherry Yard and her staff put on: marshmallows in three flavors, marshmallow guns, squirt guns filled with sauces for spraying on sundaes, individual bite-size molten chocolate cakes (all hot!), and lollipop-sized banana ice cream baked Alaskas torched-to-order by the newly married Yard, who flew in to MSP from her honeymoon . . . amazing.

****

Two years ago, right before I left FOX News, I did a story about the new eateries at the airport. I had written about it in our magazine the month before as well, and I really thought that the new restaurants had figured out a compelling way to motivate and train their host employees and seemingly had figured out a way to mobilize employees from their other Minneapolis-based sites (Ikes and French Meadow) in large enough numbers to offer competent service and food quality in their airport-based satellites. I was wrong.

I have eaten at Ike’s three times in the last two months and at French Meadow five times. What can I say? I am at the airport a lot with my wife and a three-year-old, and I am also a glutton for punishment. I can safely say that not only is the food TERRIBLE now at both locations (they were both serving pretty tasty grub the first four to six months they were open), but the service at both is beyond bad; it has morphed into painfully frustrating compounded by the fact that no one really seems to care based on my recent experiences in trying to rectify bad situations gone worse. For example, at FM, my wife and I waited for ten minutes on a line that shouldn’t have been there but only existed because of the inability of the seven counter workers and cooks to push some sandwiches up and out of the kiosk. Customers before and after us, some of whom vocally protested that that they had waited thirty minutes, all watched aghast as counter attendants and cooks alike simply shrugged and giggled, brazenly flaunting their I-don’t-give-a-sh*t attitude. Even the corporate managers from the food service group that is in charge of the place did NOTHING. Similar situations around the airport (along with a MOUNTAIN of personal experiences in other airports where nothing approaches this level of frustration and incompetence) tells me that the system is irreparably broken and that until restaurant owners can staff their own eateries, we will continue to get more of the same.

That being said, I know the owners of these places, and they know how important good service is, even in a quick-serve environment with a transient customer base. I am shocked that they allow this to continue and get worse. Their airport staff are the custodians of their brand, and right now, the barbarians are not only at the gate, they are in the La-Z-Boy, feet up, shoving meatball hoagies down their throats, and watching Oprah reruns.

Comments

I think The Rake online can exist just fine. This topic was posted on MNSpeak a month or so ago and I'll say the same thing here that I did there: Cristina's daily events calendar is always varied and interesting and Iggers/Bauer make a great food blogging team.

Lurcat is one of my favorite bars. Beautiful space, great staff and delicious classic cocktails. Also, they do the buckwheat crepes vegetarian for me (with mushrooms instead of ham) and I snarf them up in seconds. So good.

Well of course the airport restaurants suck!

HOST is a clueless organization that operates a monopoly & acts with impunity. They appear to have little if any ethics & have driven highly qualified managers & staff out of the company.

Secondly, I would warn any competent industry person to steer well clear of HOST & the unbelievable clearances required to work at MSP, not to mention the daily parking hastle.

The Average Joe could see this coming from ten miles away.

A bit off topic, but what the heck...

Chicago finally repeals foie gras ban.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/15/us/15liver.html?_r=1&ref=dining&oref=slogin

Mortons?

It's full of expense account diners, and it's just yet another anonymous steakhouse serving the same boring 6 cuts of beef and a steamed head of broccoli and asparagus with hollandaise. But the worst part is, like Chambers or the food court at Macy's, it's a basement restaurant. I find basement eateries too depressing to eat at. Bad feng shui or something.

agree on Mortons. That's why I carry out. Their $12 hamburger is the best traditional burger downtown. I would say the best, but Vincent's short rib dealio gives it a run.

BTW, if you're ever in DT Chicago looking for a cheap early dinner or happy hour, the Morton's on Wacker and Michigan does the same small bites deal as the one here, but at about 1/3 of the price. Everything is $5...3 mini burgers or 3 tenderloin sandwiches, or 4 mini iceberg wedge salads, 1/2 dozen oysters, etc. You can pig out on high-end steakhouse fare for $20 between 4:30 and 6:30.

Geoff - agreed on Vincent's short-rib burger! It's certainly one of the best in town, and an excellent happy hour value as well ($8.00 between 4:30 - 6:30)!

Love Vincent's burger, no question. But 112's is better. Mortons.... blah.

I would concur on the windowless basement vibe in restaurants, hate it, however in the winter, I could care less. Also, Morton's bartenders pour a long scotch.

Morton's has a great burger. All the fatty steak trimming has to go somewhere...as in right into my burger.

I agree that the FM food at the airport is god-awful. I don't expect much service there, but the food was disgusting and shockingly flavorless. Come on FM, don't you care about your name and reputation?

Hey Andrew,

Just wanted to inform you of two Bizarre Food Festivals that you may or may not be aware of: Montana Testicle Festival in Clinton MT (http://www.testyfesty.com) & The Roadkill Cookoff (http://pccocwv.com/festival.htm) in Marlinton, WV (my home state -- haven't visited it yet though)

Have to say that watching your & Bourdain's show have altered how I look at menus -- skip the burger & go straight for the fish tail as I did at a diner in McConneslville OH recently.

Chiming in late, but with real feeling: Iggers and Bauer are still some of my favorite food writers around, regardless of their medium. Iggers, in particular, has a restaurant radar that is uncannily well-tuned. Here's hoping that they keep on keepin' on.

Andrew, I'm not exactly Richard D'Amico whispering in your ear, but rakemag.com is doing just fine, thanks. One thing I always like about blogs is how people can just speculate without doing any actual reporting. If you'd called, you'd have heard traffic is up. Sales are up. And a great way to make money is to cut all the overhead of designing, printing and distributing a magazine while at the same time retaining and even expanding readership.

Seriously now - Online is where it's at, as Mr. Bartel has indicated. The questions in the near term will be: Is it factual? Is it well written? Does anyone care? Check out a cool fledgling foodie/drinkie/industry blog at http://dishtc.blogspot.com

Airport customers aren't as transient as you might think. A lot of us take the same trip every week, and find comfort in routine. The service at FM is so blatantly inept and rude I will never go back. I also won't visit any other FM's as well - the service is that bad.

Got to say, I look at a lot of blogs on a daily basis and you've definitely achieved the "asinine comment of the day" award today. I may be biased, but I've got to concur with Tom. Drop the costs of printing out of the equation and keep the content quality high and it's perfectly reasonable to expect to make money online. And there are some great bloggers over at The Rake.

Rich...you might want to develop a nom de plume for self-referential comments.

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