Flicker of Hope
By Andrew Zimmern
There are lots of reasons to be hopeful: Change is inevitable, and it sure does keep things interesting.
Doug Flicker has put in his notice at Mission American Kitchen, and according to owner Anoush Ansari, it is an amicable and friendly separation. How else could it be, considering that Doug and Anoush are two of the classiest guys in the business? Both Mission and Flicker will flourish, but any chef's exit is a great time to take inventory of the situation at hand.
When Doug took over the stove at Mission, I wrote that this was a grand experiment. Would Flicker get bored executing from a playbook not entirely of his own design? Would an offer come along that would persuade him to open up his own restaurant cooking food more to his liking? Would he attempt to re-imagine some of Mission’s menu in an attempt to inject some excitement into the dinner menu there (clearly things are going gangbusters at lunch)? Well, throughout the next few weeks, I am sure we will find out more, but this much is clear: Customers were not responding to what Doug was permitted to bring to the menu. If they were, ownership and Flicker would still be together. You could see this one coming from a mile away.
The toughest thing to achieve in this business, from a chef's point of view, is to change your style away from what you are most passionate about. I would guess pumping out 200 salad bowls at lunch is not what Doug does best or even wants to do, based on my conversations with him throughout the years. I really liked a lot of what he was doing to remake some of the menu at Mission. I reviewed the restaurant very favorably after he took charge and started to throw some of his dishes on the menu, his touches and flourishes were everywhere. But I think you have to be all-or-nothing to succeed, and Mission was in-between under Flicker.
Ansari and his partners have found a great niche serving well-designed, recognizable fare at decent prices in a smart, clean environment. Their recipe for success is working at Via as well. Simple grilled food, pasta, sandwiches, and salads at lunch. More fish and chop at dinner. It works. Flicker is one of the finest chefs in the Upper Midwest, and he is a radical aesthete when it comes to his food. I loved his food at Auriga. I thought what he was doing at Mission was biding time. I want his lamb tartare and so on. I think he will light it up in whatever his new venture will be—I am hoping that it is his own restaurant, cooking from his heart. God, I miss Auriga just writing this.
© 2008 MSP Communications, Inc. All rights reserved
The problem with Auriga was that it was very unwelcoming, especially at front of house, unless they knew you. Very Minnesotan. I got lots of feedback like that when I would reco the place. Servers were great, bartenders were fine, but... A warm welcome, and great experience are more memorable than food sometimes.
Posted by: foodoid on May 27, 2008 at 6:05 PM
I know, right? (re: Auriga) And to make matters worse, the space is still open for lease with the sign still on the door, taunting you as you drive by...
I hope he's making a big leap. He was too good for Mission.
Posted by: Anne on May 27, 2008 at 9:04 PM
Maybe Doug will flourish at his own place...old Zander space?
Posted by: queenofbigtime on May 28, 2008 at 4:57 AM
Mission was awful for dinner when we were there recently. So much so I asked "When did Flicker leave" only to be told he was still there.
Posted by: Erik on May 28, 2008 at 9:39 AM
Flicker seems to be in a bind. Chef-ing isn't a pure art form. He's apparently too much of an auteur to work for someone else, and apparently not enough of a businessman to work for himself. I hope he figures it out, because he seems like a good bloke and a heck of a chef..
Posted by: geoff on May 28, 2008 at 1:19 PM
Speaking of chef-driven restaurants, has anyone been to jp's lately? A recent weekday trip there, at 7pm, yielded an empty dining room, 1 group of five in the bar and one couple, and 4 two-tops outside. And things didn't change for the hour we sat there. And they were "out" of mussels and tuna. Scared.
Posted by: se on May 29, 2008 at 9:39 AM
We stopped into JP's a couple of weeks ago (at 6 on a beautiful sunny day) and it was the same. Maybe eight in the bar, a couple of two-tops outside and maybe six in the dining room.
Posted by: NordeastB on May 29, 2008 at 1:46 PM
Flicker taking a line cook position at Porter & Frye for the summer?
Posted by: anonymous on May 30, 2008 at 11:27 AM
unless he can fix the FOH, I think his usefulness @ P&F will be limited.
Posted by: geoff on May 30, 2008 at 4:23 PM
you're missing the point, geoff... he's going to be a LINE COOK.
Posted by: anonymous on May 31, 2008 at 11:27 AM
Not only is Doug Flicker an incredibly creative chef, he is also quite generous with his talent and time, along with the entire Auriga gang. In fact, Doug is collaborating with former Auriga pal and present chef at Grand Cafe this Thursday, June 5 to support housing and care for people living with HIV/AIDS. What a guy! Rumor has it that there are still a few seats available. Call Lee at 612.236.9527 to check it out.
Posted by: Lee H on June 2, 2008 at 12:25 PM
anonymous...I'm not missing the point, just pointing out the missing.
Posted by: geoff on June 2, 2008 at 3:03 PM
Speaking of Grand Cafe ... Jon Radle (Auriga sous chef) and his crew are turning out a some exceptional food. We were there Saturday and the English Pea Soup with preserved lemon was sublime as was the Watercress Salad with Duck Confit, Pickled Ramps and Pecorino Fresca. I made note of the ingredients because it was truly an amazing salad. With numerous visits I have yet to be disapointed.On a previous visit a table that was being fussed over was kitchen staff from Porter and Frye.."regulars" our waiter informed us.
Posted by: Paula on June 3, 2008 at 11:16 AM
Porter and Frye is in a heap of trouble and I am sure the kitchen crew is out and about plotting their next move. If Flicker can help in the kitchen, great! The front of house is being by run literally by no one. The hotel appears to be on the verge of going bankrupt. Good Luck Doug!
Posted by: Anonymous on July 2, 2008 at 10:21 AM