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January 4, 2008, 4:20 PM

Peace on Earth, Good Will to All Men

By Andrew Zimmern

Oh my, what a Pandora’s box the whole Mitch Omer rake.com piece has become. I just got back from a family vacation and only saw the blog last Thursday afternoon when my editor e-mailed it to me to see if I had seen it yet. I hadn’t but read it for the first time by late Tuesday night. I know City Pages is running a story on it next week, and I will be posting something on Monday myself, but to satisfy the gossip addicts out there, here is the short version.

1. Holy crap was that a great read! I really enjoyed it.

2. Omer had some factual errors, but they were all excusable given the format he was writing in. Blogs are fun for that kind of rant.

3. He was misinformed about several Mpls.St.Paul Magazine policies, but no harm, no foul.

4. My blog last Thursday morning was not a response to Mitch—I submitted that blog the day before I saw his piece.

5. Most importantly, I have been advocating for years to see the loosening of the ‘road rules’ for these types of conversations. I applaud them; they are all healthy, and we need more people speaking their minds, not fewer.

6. I no longer write monthly restaurant reviews for the magazine and haven’t for some time.

7. In our print and online media, we consistently applaud many of the items at Hell’s Kitchen, and I have listed them in several roundups I have been a part of. My family loves the lemon ricotta pancakes.

8. Anyone who didn’t think that Aquavit in its prime was worth fellating should have their head examined. When that restaurant was firing on all cylinders and when Marcus and Roger were in the kitchen, the food was the best in town, hands down.

Anyway, more on Monday.

****

One thing is true: I am a food first kind of guy, and I am ecstatic that one of the Midwest’s best chefs is about to go public, again, in a kitchen that is geared to his talent level. Steven Brown has promised to let me know ASAP about Porter and Frye’s opening, but he did e-mail me last week to fill me in on the crew he has put together and the training/testing they are undergoing right now. He has taken over Mark McGraw’s kitchen at Confluence in Prescott for a few weeks to test recipes and train staff. More restaurants should be approaching opening day the way Brown is—very few can afford it, but the results for opening a kitchen without having the food execution reasonably tested are disastrous.

According to Steven, P and F’s chef de cuisine is Josh Habiger, an alum of Chicago’s Alinea as well as Craft in NYC. Other crew members include Abe Sanchez (112 eatery sous-chef and currently staging in San Fran) and Juliette Lelchuk (an Ecole Lenotre grad who just finished staging for a second time at Gary Danko) in pastry. Other local line cooks and sous-chefs are headed there as well. Potential menu items include veal tenderloin and veal breast paired with spinach, grapefruit, and juniper. Also look for swordfish with apple butter, celery, crescent potatoes, and warm truffle vinaigrette. I am excited to say the least.

Comments

OMFG! I probably found that way more hilarious than you did. Seemed like someone got their panties in a bunch, drank a 5th of whiskey and decided to go to DEFCON 1 and launched all nukes.
I have to say, being a new comer to the foodie community, I did not see anything you wrote that warranted that harsh a response. I think that one must of been building for a while. Why can't we all just get along.......

It was fun to see everyone get bent out of shape like that for a couple days.

Is brown going to promise poutin again?
Will he deliver or will he leave for the next big thing again?

TBD.

What makes no sense to me is why Mitch didn't comment directly on some of your posts. Instead he runs off a chops small pieces of posts and rants about them.

Newsflash for Mitch. Talented food critics have egos and will disagree. That is the entire point of having critics. While you (Chef Andrew) are opinionated, I always take it as that and you've always posted any comments on your opinions.

Mitch rips on your for talking about your Tonight Show visits. I enjoyed those blogs as you shared the experience.

Keep up the good (and entertaining) work.

in re Omer, seems you take taking the high road to a new extreme. have you had your inner native New Yorker surgically removed?

Porter & Frye will be done in by its location. who's going to eat those menu items once the foodie buzz wears off and that hotel is running @ a steady 40% occupancy because its pricing is out of step with its location? Certainly not the type of conventioneers the city has been drawing of late (RNC aside). Steven's heart is in the right place, but I give him 9 months, tops before he'll grow weary of ownerships' harping on cost containment.

Way to be, Andrew!

Cheers, and keep blogging about food.

Just caught up with the Omer drama, and my oh my does someone seem to be a bit overzealous in his defense of his BFF.
As an "under-funded foodie" I appreciate commentary on the best restaurants in the city, as I can afford to go to the lower-rent places and try the grub for myself, but I do like some professional input on the places I need to save my pennies for.

I look forward to another SB effort ala Rockstar, where it appeared Steven did whatever he wanted...which tasted great. (I did not get that vibe at Levain and definitely not at Harry's)

Rumor has it Porter & Frye is drug testing their potential staff (at least front of house and line cooks), which I find hilarious. Anyone looking to work there may want to wait a couple weeks before heading in for an interview since the test is of the, "you need to be at HCMC within the next 15 minutes to pee in a cup if you want to work here" variety.

I can confirm the drug-testing rumor; that's standard operation for a major chain hotel restaurant.

AZ, welcome back from vacation!

Confirming what Alexis said. I've worked for one major hotel chain and 2 independents...the chain tested, the indies didn't.

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