|
« September 2007 |
Main
| November 2007 »
October 31, 2007, 11:07 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
This is one of the dishes I first turn to whenever the cool
weather hits us. These fabulous braised veal shanks are perfect for family dinners
or entertaining. Be sure to keep some small forks or espresso spoons handy for
extracting the delicate marrow from the bones. The fennel and orange flavors
marry beautifully, as does the vinegar, which cuts through the fatty richness of
the veal shanks.
Braised Veal Shanks with Orange and Fennel 8 osso buco veal shanks . . . please select meaty, center-cut
pieces, approximately 14–16 oz. a piece Kosher salt and pepper Flour for dredging 4 T. olive oil 2/3 c. sherry wine vinegar 3 c. homemade veal or beef stock 2 medium-sized fennel bulbs, trimmed 3 c. peeled and sliced carrots 1 c. fresh squeezed orange juice 1/2 c. cooked and cooled peas (or frozen) 1 orange, peeled and segmented, freed of all connective
tissue and filament
Preheat oven to 375. Season the veal shanks with the salt and pepper and dredge
with the flour. Place the olive oil in a large pan over medium-high heat and
brown the veal. Reserve to a platter. Discard the fat from the pan.
Add the vinegar, scraping the pan, and reduce by half. Add the stock and reduce by a third. Return the veal to the pan, cover, and braise in the oven for an hour.
Slice the fennel lengthwise into sixths. Uncover the veal, then add the carrots, fennel, and orange juice. Raise temperature to 400 and cook uncovered for another 45
minutes, basting as you go.
Skim the sauce. Reserve the meat (it should be fork-tender) and vegetables to a platter, then return the pan
to medium heat on your stovetop and reduce liquids to sauce consistency. Stir in the peas, then season and serve over the shanks.
Garnish with the orange sections. Serves 6.
October 24, 2007, 8:00 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
On November 2–3, local shoppers can buy real
Urbani truffles at their local supermarket. I think that says a lot about our
town. But then, on the other hand, it’s really just a convenience issue. Lunds and Byerly's are handling the shopping for you. They aren't actually going to be retailing the
item regularly, but it’s a start. Here’s how it works. You pre-order at a deli
service counter at any Lunds or Byerly’s store. Then the truffles will be
available for pick-up on Friday, November 2, at Byerly’s in Edina from 12–6
p.m. and on Saturday, November 3, at Byerly’s in St. Louis Park from 9 a.m.–3
p.m. The truffles are from Urbani, a company I order from regularly, so you
can trust them. I have seen white truffles available this season for anywhere from
a few hundred dollars for a seven-ounce jar of brushed truffles (subpar product)
to $400 for a fresh three-ounce truffle. That was the best price I saw all season
so far. Still outrageous, but worth it. According to the company, “Because of
the fluctuating market price for truffles, the exact price charged at Byerly’s
will not be known until the sale dates.” What will you do with yours? If you go
white, be sure to get a truffle that is not tinned or jarred, is clean and
moisture-free, and is less than ten days out of the ground. D’Artagnan is currently selling white truffles for $420 an ounce and
winter black truffles for $80 an ounce.
****
So many books are out these days that I am digging. Check
out suvir.com for a preview of my buddy Suvir Saran’s new American Masala. I
love this book.
****
Adam Roberts, The Amateur Gourmet, saw Alice Waters on The
View and has some interesting insight, and the clip of Joy talking about chicken vaginas and beer cans to
Dame Waters
is as good as it gets. I love Alice Waters, but she really needs to figure out
how to connect to more than just her primary core constituency. Her message is
spot-on, but if she could tap into RaRay's audience for just five seconds, things
would start moving in the right direction a little faster.
****
Have you seen the feature on The Huffington Post that lets
you see who in the food world is donating to which presidential candidate? Grub
Street pointed us in that direction. Chefs are here. Restaurateurs are here.
****
Ed Levine lays out contradictory positions on pasta and
sauce from Mario Batali and Mark Bittman. He mentions Gwyneth Paltrow filming with the pair for a new series. I just saw Gwyneth in two movies on the plane, Murder and Shakespeare in Love. I
can't wait to see her standing next to Mario and Mark in the new show. Beauty and the Beasts!
****
Grist, a website dedicated to environmental news and
commentary, has been running a special series on food and farming. There
is a lot of cool stuff to check out on
their website, including an edible IQ quiz, an audio slideshow of the
sustainable-food revolution, an interview with Pollan (of course), and a story
about how CAFOs affect Iowa residents (from a real life Iowa resident).
****
On JGV's blog, he writes about Michelin stars and how he
would hire someone with a smile and no experience over another with four-star
experience and no smile.
****
Closer to home, on October 13, 2007, The Herkimer Pub and
Brewery claimed a GOLD medal at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival, the largest national beer competition recognizing the most
outstanding beers produced in the United States today. The top three winners in
the competition's seventy-five beer style categories were announced October 13 at the twenty-sixth annual award ceremony, held at the Colorado Convention
Center in Denver, CO. The Herkimer Pub and Brewery's Alt beer was recognized as the best in
the German Style Brown Ale/Düsseldorf Style category for its impressive malt and hop character, reddish-brown hue, overall complexity, and proprietary yeast qualities. CONGRATS
Herkimer!
October 22, 2007, 8:00 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
I love soup, and this one is a home run. Best of all, it
freezes well. I like to make this soup once it gets cold and rainy, and of
course, it’s a great way to use up those carrots that I know are always sitting
in the bottom of your vegetable bin.
Carrot Soup with
Ginger and Curry 3 lbs. peeled and chopped carrots 1 lb. carrots, juiced 3 c. chicken stock 2 T. vegetable oil 1/4 c. minced shallots 4 Kaffir lime leaves 2 T. Madras curry powder 1 t. blanchan (shrimp paste) 1/4 c. minced ginger 2 sliced garlic cloves 2 red Thai chile peppers 1 T. toasted coriander seeds 12 oz. coconut milk Lime juice and cilantro leaves for garnish
Place oil in a large pot over high heat. When aromatic, add the ginger, garlic, shallots, shrimp
paste, curry, sambal, coriander seeds, and lime leaves. Cook briefly. When aromatic, add the stock, juice, and
carrots. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Puree well, strain well, and bring to a simmer again, adding
the coco milk. Simmer until soup has a rich, full-bodied consistency, then
season with sea salt and white pepper. Add the lime juice and cilantro at the table. Serves 6–8.
October 18, 2007, 8:00 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
Okay, here we go with another lightning round of "Link Me!"
Tom Colicchio lost a Michelin star, and Gordon Ramsay got two
for his U.S. restaurant. The best chat on the topic is this recent beauty from
Frank Bruni, musing on the subject of Michelins.
****
Sara Dickerman posted this a few weeks ago on Slate—what to expect from servers, tied to the new memoir from Per Se service
alum Phoebe Damrosch, Service Included. A question: Since less than 1% of our population ever gets to eat at a
restaurant of Per Se's caliber, who will care?
****
Tony doesn't like Rachael—we know that—but this is
priceless. In New York Post, Page Six talks about Bourdain's opinion of Ray's
endorsement of Dunkin' Donuts.
New York Magazine’s Grub Street thinks Bourdain may be calling
the kettle black, and in a sense they are right. He is. But they miss the bigger point. Tony is
not conflicted because he loves donuts and slams RR because she cashes a check while
saying she loves hers—or because he waxes poetic about his old druggie days. He
is a social commentator, and unless he crosses the line and takes a paying gig
endorsing something that he has railed against, then he should be left alone by
the nattering nabobs. What he could be taken to task for would be decrying the
world of commercial television while participating in it for a living. Here’s
the bottom line, though, as far as I am concerned: TB is a witty, erudite, and
fashionable culi-pundit. He is biting and cynical. But we all have to feed the
family. I worry all the time about selling off some of my integrity—you end
up making hard choices all the time, just hoping that you're making the best decisions
possible as your career evolves.
****
Speaking of the Post, first round of trans-fat
fines have been handed out in NY (the best is the headline—"Trans-Fat Ticketers Leave No Margarine For Error"). When are we going to get some good old-fashioned anti–trans-fat legislation in
our Cities?
****
Did you ever grab something off of someone’s plate and then regret
it? This guy did. Here’s a dude who eats his girlfriend's pork chop, then
she stabs him with her fork and knife. I don't know about you, but it
seems pretty reasonable to me:
****
And finally, though I didn't even know it existed, I now
may never experience the erotic corn-dog eating competition at the Iowa State
Fair.
October 16, 2007, 9:43 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
As a die-hard
Yankee fan, there is nothing more pleasurable than seeing the Boston Red Sox
looking so demoralized when the camera pans their bench. If there is a God in
pinstripes, the Sox will squeak by the Tribe in seven and then get bageled by the
Boys in Black in the Series. And how about young Eli and my New York football
Giants? But I digress . . .
****
One of the best pieces of storytelling I've seen in a while, especially for those fifteen people on the planet who still have not read my favorite food book of the
last twenty years (The
Omnivore's Dilemma), is the documentary King
Corn. Joe Drape in The New
York Times had a great piece last week about the film, which is in limited
release. The movie, like Pollan’s book, makes a good case that, among
other things, “government subsidies have lead to the overproduction of corn at
the detriment of public health."
Some more of Drape's quotes from the NYT, as quoted in Ain't It Cool News:
That issue lives at the heart of King Corn,
which "takes the position that America's most valuable crop is
overproduced" and that it takes a toll "on the environment, public
health and family farms." While that sounds like a polemic, the filmmakers—Curt Ellis and Ian Cheney— say that wasn't their intent. Their
hope, they say, is simply "to raise awareness about how the food on our
plates gets there, for better or worse." Their device is to grow an acre
of corn in Iowa and follow its path from an Iowa grain elevator to a corn-fed
cow farm in Colorado, as well as to Brooklyn, where they "examine how high
fructose corn syrup in sodas has contributed to the nation's high obesity and
diabetes rates."Their tone remains respectful of Iowa and its farmers,
perhaps most surprisingly during a nursing-home visit with 98-year-old Earl
Butz, who was Richard Nixon's agriculture secretary and "the architect
of modern farm bills." Curt says his plan was to "take down," Mr.
Butz, but he found himself disarmed. Calling corn "our secret weapon,"
Mr. Butz said: "We feed ourselves with only 16 or 17 percent of our
take-home pay. That is marvelous." Curt couldn't disagree—even while
knowing that the acre of corn he had grown for the movie "would have lost
$19.92 but became profitable with a government subsidy of $28." As Curt
puts it: "We do not have all the answers . . . there are not fifty simple ways
to save the planet."
So if you spend 40% of your income on housing and, stretching Butz's numbers slightly, 20% on food, then is it really true that we spend 60%
of our dough on room and board in this country? No wonder no one ever saves any
money.
****
Speaking of money, if you are looking to splurge a little, here are some
ways to do it.
La Belle Vie is celebrating its second anniversary at its 510
Groveland location with a six-course wine tasting dinner at 6 p.m. on Thursday, November 1.
Special guest Terry Theise, named “Man of the Year” by Wine & Spirits Magazine and hailed by The New York Times as the “voice of Austrian
wine,” will be there.
The cost is $135 per person, plus tax and gratuity.There is limited
seating available and reservations are required. For more information or
reservations, contact La Belle Vie at 612-874-6440 or visit the website.
D'Amico Cucina is celebrating their twentieth birthday, and their
Cucina tasting menu will be comprised of menu items from the original 1987
D'Amico Cucina menu. The special menu will be offered from October 26 to
November 10 and will also be available a la carte. The tasting menu with wines
is $135. On the menu:
CONSERVA D'ANATRA, MELE, MENTA
Warm Conserve of Duck, Apples and Fresh Mint
Orvieto, Antinori "Campogrande" 2005
DENTICE ALLA MELANZANE, SALSA DI POMODORO E MELANZANE
Snapper Wrapped in Eggplant, Eggplant Tomato Sauce
Arneis, Ceretto "Blange" 2006
GNOCCHI DI FORMAGGIO DI CAPRA CON SALSA DI NOCE
Goat Cheese Dumplings with Walnut Sauce
Chardonnay, Jermann 2005
POLLO NOVELLA ALLA GRIGLIA CON ERBE E OLIO
Baby Chicken Grilled Peasant Style with Herbs and Oil
Grinolino d'Asti, F. Rinaldi 2005
SCALLOPINI DI VITELLO CON SALSA DI BOTTARGA
Pan Fried Veal with Tuna Roe Sauce
Barbaresco, Ada Nada "Cichin" 2000
TORTA RICTOTTA CON FRUTTA CANDITA
Ricotta Cheesecake with Candied Fruit
Vin Santo, Isole e Olena 1996
Finally, for $40 less than either of those two dinners, you can dine
on November 13 with the Alsatian sensation and winemaker Paul Zinck at Fugaise. Five
courses from chef-owner Don Saunders will be paired with six wines. Because of the small seating capacity, this one
will fill up fast.
So who's going? I wonder, do the same fish from
the same pond bite on the same lures in this town? As customers, do you think restaurants should continue to
do events like this? For the restaurateurs in the room, do they work for you
from a profit or PR standpoint? Discuss!
October 15, 2007, 8:00 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
Everyone has their go-to
version of meat loaf, and everyone thinks theirs is the best. I'm no different. But in case you are still looking for yours, this is the
answer to your prayers. I love to make sure I have some of this for leftover
meat loaf sandwiches that I serve on toast with Heinz chile sauce.
The Real Deal Meat loaf 1 lb. ground beef 1 lb. ground veal 1 lb. ground pork 3 T. butter 1 large onion minced 3 ribs minced celery 1 c. blanched and
drained spinach . . . frozen is OK, but be sure that it is squeezed well to remove
excess moisture. 2 pinches fresh
grated nutmeg 1 c. chopped tomatoes . . . canned is OK. 2 c. dry bread
crumbs 1/2 c. sherry 1/3 c. heavy cream 2 eggs, beaten 4 T. tomato paste, softened
in a few teaspoons of water 2 slices bacon
Place the butter into a
large sauté pan over high heat. Add the onion, spinach,
celery, nutmeg, and tomato. Cook until soft and glassy.
Add the sherry and cook
until dry. Cool, then pulse for 4 or 5 seconds in a food processor.
You don't want to purée it, but you want to be sure there are no big chunks. Place into a bowl and add
the cream, bread crumbs, eggs, and meats. Combine well and season
with salt and pepper.
Place one slice of bacon
inside a large rectangular loaf pan. Add the meat mixture
all at once and spread tomato paste mixture over the top of the meatloaf. Place a piece of bacon
over the top of the paste. Put the loaf pan into a
325-degree oven for about 2 hours.
Remove and cool for 15
minutes before unmolding, slicing, and serving.
October 11, 2007, 12:26 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
Last week I was on the Today show. FUN! Here are the highlights:
I revisited some of my fave NYC haunts while shooting the taped package they ran right before my live segment with one of their correspondents. Jenna Wolfe and I went to Carnegie Deli, Jewel Bako, Bowery Congee, and several other hot spots that I adore. They did a nice job with the taped piece, but they played the “fear factor” card a bit too much, I thought. The day of the show, we arrived nice and early and hung in the green room with Chris Matthews and his entourage of brainy politicos. Matthews is a baseball nut, and we chatted about the Yanks, Twins, and the AL. Twinkle (Jenna Bush) arrived amidst a hailstorm of security. The First Family’s personal security detail is an awesome thing to see in action, especially up close. Originally I was going to be on the couch with Matt, but since Jenna did three segments inside with Anne, the producers thought I should be outside on the plaza with all four hosts. It was a difficult thing to pull off. Four minutes, five egos, ten plates of food . . . . I would have preferred to spend the time talking to one host about sharing food and experiencing other cultures, but I’ll have to wait until next time. Meredith and Matt are very kind and sincere people, very welcoming. Roker is a goofball. Curry is phenomenal. She is the most calm and inclusive host on the set.
My wife and I were staying at the Ritz, just a block away as the venerable Plaza Hotel turned a hundred years old. Matthew Broderick cut the cake. We ran downtown before the scene got too hectic and had dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Da Silvano. This restaurant has been open since I was a young man, and it’s nothing fancy—a small little trattoria—but the food is great and the people-watching even better.
We had thin buttery slices of prosciutto that come served on a sheet of thick butcher paper, a large bowl of steamed mussels, sautéed calf's liver with sage and brown butter, and some spaghetti puttanesca . . . but the stars of the night were the twelve truffle courses. The fresh white truffles of Alba are just now in markets, and the owner of the restaurant showered us with a few dishes that are part of their fall truffle menu. First we tried the creamy white polenta, topped with a quartet of perfectly fried quail eggs crowned with a small snowdrift of shaved white truffle. Next up was a small softball of milky and warm burrata with shaved bottarga and white truffle. Oh my lord, are white truffles good.
Plaza birthday cake.
Below: Tongue and brisket at the Carnegie; polenta with quail eggs and truffles.

Below: Yoshi at Jewel Bako sharpening his knives; shinso flowers; octopus sashimi with
green tea salt, pickled cucumber, and shiso flowers at Jewel Bako.


And finally, everybody loves durian . . . !


October 9, 2007, 9:43 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
For years, I have been decrying the sorry state of
regulation, labeling, consumer education, and mass production in our food world.
I am not alone in that effort, and what's more, I've been a follower, inspired by some truly vibrant thinkers on this subject, everyone
from Michael Pollan to Eric Schlosser. The Topps Meat Company, one of the
largest in the country, is now out of business after issuing the second largest
beef recall in US history just last week. An entire year's inventory—21.7 million pounds of beef—may have been tainted with a deadly E. coli bacteria.
USDA spokespeople promised to speed-up warnings and encouragement of potential
recalls in the future. Oy vey. Closer to home, Cargill has recalled close to a
million pounds (as of Sunday) of a premade beef patty that has shipped
nationwide, including to Sam’s Club stores, where some Minnesotans bought the
product and fell ill. Cargill learned of the situation just last Friday and
acted quickly. Anyone need more convincing that something is really wrong
with our relationship to food? In our
undeniable lust for cheaper and more convenient foods, we have created a food
production chain that can kill us.
****
My dad came into town last week—happy 80th, Pop!—but some
thoughts from his visit still linger. When he comes into town, he prefers to
stay downtown in Minneapolis at his regular room at his fave hotel, so I am ferrying
him back and forth a lot, with plenty of time for us to chat in the car. One
day, as we are driving down Hennepin Ave. between 8th and 7th, cruising past
City Center and looping around Block E, my dad turns to me and says, “Not very
inviting or safe-looking is it?" And this from a
lifelong New Yorker who still walks everywhere he goes and doesn’t scare
easily. Cops on all the streets shaking down roving packs of wannabe hoodlums,
open drug transactions. There are few cool restaurant scenes or great shopping
on street level in the heart of downtown, just
huge bars with cop cars outside keeping an eye on drunk kids. I had never seen
it that way until we looped the block a few times to see what we could see,
hoping we were wrong. We weren’t. I admire our local city government for what
they are doing to make it safe for citizens in downtown Minneapolis, but at a certain
point, we must be doing something wrong if our downtown is more combat zone than
vibrant center of daily life. Take a drive around the City Center and Block E
next Friday or Saturday evening. It’s not pretty.
****
I checked out the Shrine Circus over the weekend—pretty
tame stuff, not very exciting, fewer acts than there should have been, small
crowds, and RIDICULOUS security all over the place. The vibe was not family-friendly at all. It was as if they were expecting trouble any second. And when
intermission came and went and the second half of the circus started, the
Dominguez Motorcycle Riders came out to the blaring tune of Mötley Crüe’s
“Girls, Girls, Girls,” replete with two-dozen scantily clad, preening cheerleaders
gyrating the crowd into a frenzy. I had to wonder who the core demo of the show
was. My two-and-a-half-year-old loved it all, by the way. I’m no prude, but all of
this just had me shaking my head. All the local news chat about animal cruelty
and the petitioners working overtime to disallow the use of animals in the
local version of the circus have got it wrong. The greatest injustice
is the one perpetrated against the paying public.
****
In the USA Today the other morning I saw a health piece by
Kim Painter pointing out that 23% of men leave the washroom without washing
their hands. She asserts that the reasons are always the same when you ask
someone why they don’t wash up—it takes too long, it doesn’t make a difference,
and hands look clean. WHO ARE THEY ASKING??? Everyone I know will tell you that
it’s because most public restrooms are filthy and grabbing onto faucet handles
in them is something no sane person would do . . . and of course I now always carry antibacterial
wipes.
All this is my way of saying that the older I get the more I
turn into a cross between Howard Hughes and Howie Mandel.
October 8, 2007, 5:39 PM
By Andrew Zimmern
So I had lunch with my son at Brasa last week—what a
fabulous joint that little place is. Anyway, it made me get out my favorite
grits recipe after I ate Alex's version. Here it is. I serve it either with roasted,
whole corned beef glazed with maple-bourbon-mustard sauce or under grilled
quail. (For the latter, take 12 semi-boneless quail and marinate overnight in 2 c. of fresh
orange juice. Grill over high, direct heat and brush with apricot preserves
thinned with a little cider vinegar and brown mustard.) These grits also are fabulous
with roasted ham . . . I'm making myself hungry.
Cheddar Cheese Grits 4 c. milk 1-1/2 c. quick-cooking grits . . . Quaker Oats brand work
great. 1/4 lb. plus 4 T. butter 2 t. butter for the baking dish 2 t. salt 1 dash hot pepper sauce 12 oz. of grated, sharp farmhouse cheddar cheese . . . Grafton
works well. 3 eggs, well-beaten Butter for frying
Butter a long, rectangular baking dish—Le Creuset works
great, as does Pyrex. Preheat oven to 375. In a large sauce pan, bring the milk and 2 c. water to boil
over high heat. Pour in the grits, and stir well.
Pull from heat and stir in all the seasonings, cheese, 1/4 lb.
butter, and the eggs, stirring well. Pour into the prepared baking dish and place in the oven for
1 hour at 350 degrees. Let cool for 10 minutes, then serve.
October 4, 2007, 10:54 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
After watching the Top Chef finale last night, I can assure
you justice was served. Hung deserved to win. Casey and Dale both could have
won, but in the finale meal, they underwhelmed. It also shows that ultimately,
the best dish wins. Hung's sous vide duck was the best plate last night,
according to those who ate it. Listening to Ted Allen and Padma
Lakshmi talk food is a painful experience. Neither one is a legitimate opinion-maker or really knows what they are talking about. They are created characters, essentially. All you had to do was listen to Rocco, Todd, Michelle, Colicchio, et
al. talking about the food throughout the finale to see that Allen and
Lakshmi are devoid of any credibility. Congrats to all, especially our own
Brian Malarkey, who very easily could have been in the final three. The New York Daily News has this exclusive
web-interview with the producer of Top Chef about the show.
****
So much to link to today. For starters, David Bouley is
opening a restaurant with Yoshiki Tsuji in New York. Tsuji is the
president of Japan's largest professional cooking school. This merging of East
and West is quite possibly the largest and most important food trend of the
last fifty years.
****
You may have already seen this, but Ruhlman and Bourdain are
doing "The Golden Clog" awards.
****
Frank
Bruni writes about restaurant nomenclature in his blog.
****
Want
to help improve school foods? (Want to watch Jared from the Subway commercials talk policy on C-SPAN?)
****
Check out this cool toy.
****
My friends in Chicago all tell me mixed things about Grant
Achatz's health (Achatz has mouth cancer). But along similar lines, a
reader of Grub Street wrote in for suggestions on where he should eat before an operation that may take away his sense of taste. Grub Street
enlists Eric Ripert to cook him a meal he'll never forget.
****
I am a huge stickler for labels and info. Here is an
awesome little video on PLU codes and how to read them. The skinny? Conventional: four digits. Organic: five digits beginning with a nine. Genetically modified: five digits beginning with an eight.
****
Here is a NYT article on New Yorkers that eat outdoors—that is, suffer through eating outdoors just to be more European, even though
eating outside sucks. I don't know about you, but it would be great to have more three-season outdoor-eating venues here in the Twin Cities.
****
Do you remember all those bad boy chef stories that mentioned Mario Batali? Here is a wind-up Mario toy
that flips pasta in one hand and has a bottle of scotch in the other. By the way, he looked physically worse on Jimmy
Kimmel the other night than I have ever seen him.
****
Here's a food-on-stick that sounds awesome: tornado
potato.
****
Next
week, I'll fill you in on my Today Show experience, with pictures.
October 3, 2007, 11:11 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
In seven-plus years, I have never received more mail on
customer disappointment than I have from e-mailers recently about bad
experiences at Harry’s. If the sampling is any indication of how things are
going there, the restaurant isn't long for this world. Second place goes to
Landmarc. Is it just me or has there been a veritable explosion of mediocre
restaurants?
****
One of the issues in the local dining world is a shortage of
talented operators who are demanding enough and capable of training staff and
molding kitchens. But according to another e-mailer, the Twin Cites market is
oversaturated with wine vendors and distributors. I am quoting here
a former salesperson for a venerable company: We are all climbing over each other to harass restaurant
owners who can smell us coming from across the street and hide in the basement
until we leave. Some of us are actually doing a good job of seeking out
the small boutique production wines, unusual varietals, biodynamic-sustainable
production, and generally stellar wines. Others are simply selling on
brand recognition and price. I guess the real question I have is whether
the Twin Cities market is ready for Inzolia, Nero d’ Avola, Trincedeira, and
Moschofilero, or are we content to swim in a sea of animals on the label,
Marilyn-Seven-Deadly-Big-Red-Randy-Bicyclettes, giant conglomerate stuff you
can find around the corner in the $5 bin? And more pointedly, is there is
room in the market for forty-eight wine vendors?
Sound familiar?
I think the answer is that there are fewer restaurants
looking to really educate staff and grow a real wine program than there are
restaurants looking to serve really good food. Am I wrong?
****
Russell Klein’s Meritage is opening
next month, and Klein e-mailed me to point out that Meritage will be downtown St.
Paul’s only owner-operated, food-driven table-cloth restaurant. He also pointed
out that the last three restaurants to close there (Margaux, Fhima's, and A
Rebours) all closed because of reasons other than the state of dining in the
city itself. Agreed. Margaux closed because it served bad food in a bad
location and was a dull restuaurant; Fhima’s was just bad, period; and A Rebours
kept sliding off everyone’s radar screen as the food got worse and worse, and as
Doug Anderson focused more of his attention on the new Nick and
Eddie project in Minneapolis. However, my point in previous blogs has been that the
customers are not in downtown St. Paul, and I think restaurateurs need to go
where the customers are. I think Meritage has a great chance of succeeding, but
if they were up on Grand Avenue, they would fill more often, fill
earlier, and do more business.
****
Got a few e-mailers who saw me on talk shows or heard me on
national radio programs over the last few weeks. I was in NYC shooting a new
series for Travel Channel called What’s Your Trip, a Talk Soup–style show that
features gobs of awesome user-generated content. Check out the Travel Channel
for details on attending the Travel Channel Academy video school—it’s
fantastic. I was in NY for Fashion Week and had a great meal at Momofuku and at
Olives in the W Union Square. Randy Gerber’s Underbar is pretty cool there as
well. I had a ginger ale one night there and saw everyone from Jordin Sparks to
Kanye West hanging out.
****
According to a reliable source, Boba Café in Brookdale is serving
some really good Hmong food. The guy who told me about Va Lor clued me in to
it.
****
According to an e-mail from Joan
Ida, her Hong King project is not moving along as fast as she
would like, and she is coming home to Minneapolis after some traveling in Asia. Here is
my wish to the food gods that she opens up a high-end Chinese restaurant on
Grand Avenue in St. Paul in the space across from CVS pharmacy, the old Bober
Drug space.
****
Does anyone ever watch TasteTV?
October 1, 2007, 8:00 AM
By Andrew Zimmern
October is here. Who cares what the temperature gauge says
or how the local teams did over the weekend? Who cares how much time a dish takes to cook now that the
season has turned? I am getting ready for hibernation, so break out the cream and
butter and dust-off the kettle . . . or if you like, blow the cobwebs from a French
classic and get cooking. This recipe reminds me why great food is timeless. I
cut the back bones out of the ducks when they have rested for 20 minutes after
cooking, serving the duck in quarters. Two servings is half a duckling—a large
portion per diner, but I rarely serve it any other way.
Duck a l’Orange 2 large Pekin (Long Island) ducklings, about 5–6 lbs. each 5 c. fresh orange juice 4 buds star anise, ground or crushed
The Sauce 4 c. rich duck stock or veal stock 1 c. fresh squeezed orange juice 1/4 c. Grand Marnier 6 cloves Zest of 1 orange 1 shallot, minced 1 cinnamon stick 1/4 c. sugar 1 t. lemon juice
Prick the ducks with a sharp fork and wriggle the skin to
loosen. Marinate the ducks for 24–36 hours in the orange juice and
ground star anise. I use the super-sized Ziploc bags.
Remove ducks from marinade, discard marinade, and place ducks on a rack
in your refrigerator. Dry for 12 hours refrigerated and then 2 hours at
room temperature.
Rack the ducks over a roasting pan, season with salt and
pepper, and stuff the cavities with rosemary and sliced oranges. Preheat the oven to 350 and roast ducks for 2 hours,
turning and basting with the fat, pricking the skin occasionally when the leg
joint wriggles in its socket.
Place the sugar and lemon juice in a high-sided saucepan
over low-medium heat and slowly let it caramelize without stirring. When golden light brown, pull from heat and stir in the
shallots, orange zest, and spices. Add the stock (it will bubble a lot—keep
stirring), then the cup of orange juice and Grand Marnier, stirring. Bring
to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and reduce to sauce consistency.
Season with sherry wine vinegar, salt, and orange zest. Strain and keep warm.
Serve the duck with the sauce. Serves 4–6.
« September 2007 |
Main
| November 2007 »
|