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September 13, 2007, 9:42 AM

Mailbag

By Andrew Zimmern

Whoever posted a comment on Tuesday’s post questioning the notion that I would dare post a blog about the MTV VMAs, you need to remember Rule 62, and you should stop practicing contempt prior to investigation, or in this case judging a blog before it is written. So here it is: I was in Vegas, and I was backstage at the VMAs, and now you have me so eager to please you that I am a little ashamed to post about that experience. Perhaps someday in my memoirs. I will say, however, that there were 1,600 police deployed for the NBA All-Star Game and only about 500 for the VMAs. The All-Star Game featured nightly shootings on the streets of Las Vegas, and the VMAs featured Kid Rock and Tommy Lee pushing each other, each afraid to throw a punch at the other. Shameful pansies.

So Saturday night, I ate at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon with PBS icon and Savvy Traveler Rudy Maxa and our respective SOs. The food was superb—anyone who can’t make it to the original Parisian version would do well to check it out in the MGM Grand. The cucumber gelee with cumin and thyme custard, the fresh anchovy and pepper pave, and the seared beef with his signature potatoes were all out of sight . . . almost as good as the lady behind us who NODDED OUT AT HER TABLE while her four dinner companions kept eating and pretended she was fine until they carried her out. Only in Vegas, baby.

The next night, Travel Channel hosted a dinner at Tao at the Venetian. Holy moly. This place was amazing, one of the most stunning restaurants I have ever seen. Three stories of open space, club, bar, sushi bar, restaurant—plus Diddy, Pharrel, Mischa Barton, and Jamie Foxx, just to name a few of the sightings. And the food was pretty tasty. I liked the crispy tuna rolls and the Peking duck in pancakes with scallions the best. Fiamma at the MGM was not as good as the original in New York, but it was still very good, and the room was even prettier than Tao’s. I have never sat in a room that did a better job of maintaining small pods of tables while still allowing you to see through the dining room from level to level. The restaurant is huge, but feels intimate.

A woman e-mailed me last week to ask:

. . . about Clancey's market in Linden Hills . . . and as [you're] a reporter and advocate for local foods (I'm a Slow Foods member), I thought that perhaps passing it on to you would be the best way to test its accuracy. Rumor has it that Greg Westergreen has been axed. That's probably more fact than gossip, but what I really want to know is if it's true that Kristin, the owner, is keeping all the recipes and products he developed over the years. Apparently, they never had any written contract, just an understanding that the shop was a team project, even she was the legal owner. Seems to me that the butcher makes the butcher shop, so I'm not sure if it will be able to retain it's quality if he's replaced. Anyhow, I'll be sorely disappointed if I found out that he was treated unfairly after working so hard to promote local foods. So much for the 'friendly neighborhood shop' reputation.

Okay, so my take is this: Greg’s e-mail to me said he is no longer at Clancey’s. He indicated that he and Kristin parted ways, but nothing more. And if he was fired, so be it. I’ve been fired from plenty of jobs, sometimes fairly, sometimes I had issues with it, but that’s life. It happens. I think you meant to say what you heard is more gossip than fact.

If he and Kristin had a business relationship where she was the controlling partner, owner, or signed his check in any way, and if Greg was an employee, then the recipes belong to the business. When I left Café Un Deux Trois after six or seven years in the kitchen, I left behind a large book of recipes. Michael Morse, the restaurant’s owner, is the one who got those, and he deserved to have them. They were his. He paid for them, because part of my job description was to create food for his company. Subsequent chefs in the restaurant used the recipes I left behind, and the menu at Landmarc (MM’s new place) looks very similar to the one he and I developed at 1-2-3. But that’s the way the business works. He used the recipes in perpetuity and still does, and I still make many of those dishes as well. Now had I developed a cookie or terrine recipe that I wanted to ‘own,’ I would have trademarked or copywritten it, depending on the legalities and the format of the product in question, and not served it in the restaurant at all. Any chef can do that.

The butcher does make the butcher shop. Kristin will live with her decision. Greg will make his living elsewhere, and his fans can follow him. And if the shop quality suffers, Clancey’s fans will also move on. That’s how the world works.

Who knows if he is being treated unfairly or not? I would say, don’t rush to judge. Greg sent me his resume asking if I knew of any jobs out there for him, and since he is so talented, I am sure there are plenty of restaurants or shops eager to employ him.

AND IF YOU REALLY BELIEVE IN SUPPORTING LOCAL FOODS, you should continue to shop at Clancey’s as long as you are happy with the product there. If we stopped eating or shopping at every food business that had some crazy owner-employee relationships, we wouldn’t be able to eat anywhere. Including my house and probably yours as well!

In our office, we look at The Amateur Gourmet often, but after all the heat between him and Mario, he has some interesting things to say about food blogging. Very interesting, considering his book is about to come out, so he's a food blogger going legit. This post talks about the differences between reviewing as a food blogger and then as a newspaper critic, likening it to one-night stands (food bloggers) vs. a more involved relationship (print critics). Pretty good stuff.

So, here are three cool dining reservations that you need to make for yourself . . .

According to the folks at LBV:

La Belle Vie is expanding beyond its front doors to host its first Pique-nique de Automne, Oct. 7, starting at 3 p.m. on the restaurant's front lawn. Guest will enjoy playing boules, listening to accordion music, and savoring Executive Chef Tim McKee's own pique-nique creations.

James Beard award nominee Chef McKee has created a special menu just for the event, including Grilled Leg of Lamb with Herbes de Provence, Fire Roasted Prawns with Saffron and Coriander, Rabbit and Porcini Sausages, Truffled Foie Gras Mousse, Grilled Poussin with Harissa and Honey, Grilled Bread with Tomato, Capers and Garlic.

Learn more on the LBV website.

The folks at the Graves are organizing a dinner at Cosmos featuring "Next Great Chefs of the Twin Cities," promising:

. . . it will be a dinner showcasing the talents of the next up-and-coming executive chefs or chef de cuisines, all new to their positions but creating excellent cuisine. The dinner will benefit the Heartland Food Network and will be held on October 10, 2007. The list of the participating chefs is Hakan Lundberg, Chef de Cuisine at Cosmos; Eric Sturtz, Chef de Cuisine at Café Levain; Landon Schoenfeld, Chef de Cuisine at Barbette; Leonard Anderson, Executive Chef at W.A. Frost; and Dianna Yang, the Pastry Chef at La Belle Vie & Solera.

According to the folks at Fugaise:

. . . we will be celebrating our two-year anniversary later this month. As you know, this is no small feat for "white linen" places such as ours. So again, on behalf of everyone here at Fugaise, thank you for your support. To that end, we would also like to invite you to celebrate the occasion with us on Wednesday, September 26. Chef Don has pulled out the menu archive. He is featuring some of the highlights from the past year in two tasting menus to be offered on the night mentioned above. There will be an early seating at 5:30 p.m., when a five-course menu will be offered, and a later seating at 8:15 p.m. for seven courses. Wine pairings will be available as well.

The earlier menu is:

Scallops with Salsify, Butter Lettuce, Sauce Choron

Skatewing with King Crab, Roasted Red Pepper, and Herb Pan Sauce

Wild Boar Ravioli with Black Mission Fig, Raddichio, and Aged Balsamic

Rack of Lamb Imam Bayildi with Braised Lamb Strudel and Eggplant Caviar

Poached Pear with Mint-Marscarpone Tart, Candied Pecans, and Clove

Comments

Um. Shouldn't that be Pique-nique d'Automne? I'm actually quite certain it should. I couldn't find a Contact Us place on their site to suggest the change. Maybe I'm wrong? It's been while but I did study French for many years and lived there for four years.

I really think along with the "Next Great Chefs of the Twin Cities" , the Chef de Cuisine from the 112 Eatery should be recognized that night. He's a good friend of mine and does a great job at the restaurant.

Totally agree with your spin on Clancy's. I continue to shop there because the place is still the same to me and the quality still crazy good. What's not to love? The level of service is outstanding and I love being able to grab a bottle of Captain Eli's parrot punch to enjoy with my corned beef sandwich.

I also think there's something nice about being able to say "can you french a couple rib steaks for me?" and have them know EXACTLY what that means and do it beautifully. Clancy's is worth the drive every time.

What about the guy across the street from 112 @ Saffron? Shouldn't that guy be in the "Next Great Chefs of the Twin Cities"?

I have been to Saffron several times and his food is out of this world!

Has anyone else been there? and what did you think?

I didn't know Landon moved to Levain. Or, hell, maybe I did; I can't keep up anymore. His short stint at Barbette was awesome, though.

I cannot figure out why Erick Harcey of the Nicollet Island Inn is allowed to fly so far below the radar? The property is a landmark, the food is midwest friendly with the sophistication necessary to attract the serious diner, and yet???

Andrew-

Thanks for looking into the Clancey's gossip. My intention was to say that his firing was fact, the rest was rumor. Had the rumor not come from close to the source, I'd have dismissed it outright.

If they continue to run a first rate operation then they'll continue to do well, and more power to them. I'd hate to lose my source for foie gras and wild boar.

-K

Alexis, you're reading the post wrong, Langdon is still at Barbette.

Jamen, are you kidding me about the Nicollet Island Inn?
Unless things have changed there dramatically over the years it isn't even worth being in the discussion.

I do agree about Denny at 112. He's great.

And I LOVE eating at Saffron. That place doesn't get enough recognition.

Kate, I have only been in the cities for the past year, but during my time out on the east coast, and in other countries with gastonomic pedigree, I would say the ambience, the service the quality of the food, and the value of the experience rival similar restaurants in all of those markets.

I'm just mad about Saffron. Saffron's mad about me.

I couldn't agree more about Saffron. One of the best meals in town. "Sameh" is really on top of his game. What about Chef -Brian- at Alma also one of the best.

And L-
Things have changed dramatically at the Nicollet Island Inn. We are very proud of what we are doing. We are using several local farms and sustainable product.Something that was not part of the past. We have a unique setting and a regular clientele that we gear torwards but are really trying to expand into the current market and change the "past" about the Nicollet Island Inn.

Also...
I would put two of my sous in the "next Great Chefs" category:
Jes Werkmeister (formerly of Fugaise)
Ryan Stetschulte

These two are really great also!!!

Hmmm, it seems there are many unsung sous and chef de cuisines being overlooked by the folks at Cosmos.

Maybe it would be a good posting for Andrew...take a look at who's really cooking and creating your food. I know there are new items on the menu at the 112 that are not Isaac's, I'm sure it's the same at other spots.

L- Happy to hear you know Denny and share my thoughts.

Erick- Very happy to hear things have changed at Nicollet. I ate there in February for the first time, and was really unhappy. Looking forward to giving it another shot!

Oops. Guilty of reading while hungover.

I agree with all the praise that Saffron is getting here. I had a fabulous meal there!

Saffron. Come on! Pretty weak. Been their twice and was really disappointed both time. Once again, all the foodies in the Twin Cities continue to pat themselves on the back while eating poor food. No matter what you continue to say to yourselves, too many "acclaimed" places in this town are truly mediocre! That is why Five, Levain, and Auriga closed and why 112, Alma, Lucia's stay open and continue to succeed. They are good. Rather than criticizing the Twin Cities as not being food friendly, when are people going to take a hard look at overpriced poor executed food and place the blame where it belongs. Minnesota nice doesn't mean you should over pay for mediocre food.

By the way, Brasa stinks! $14 a plate for this type of food is ridiculous. Better to get carnitas on lake street. Dara and the gang are a true joke! How about a critical review once in a while.

dan from sf,

clearly you're just trying to get us riled up with a lot of vague and derisive comments. if you're going to criticize the food offered in our town(s), you're going to have to be more specific, and also prove to us that you know what you're talking about. otherwise, you're a bully. and not a very interesting one.

Hey Dan,

Not all of us exist merely to fuel the hype machine. Check out the October issue of Mpls.St.Paul for a more skeptical take on Brasa. It's diffifcult to have a balanced take when all of us root so hard for great chefs and the local food movement, but I agree--it's pricey, a lot of the food was bland or overcooked when I dined there in August, and 90 degrees is too warm for a dining room.

I live in KC. MO, but know someone who lives in MN.and is trying to find GOOD ethnic restaurants and having trouble. The ones she has tried have been bland and unsatifatory. Any sugestions or ideas would be greatful.

Julie

Dan From San Fran, thank you so much for setting us Minnesotans straight with your superior San Fransiscan palate. You have to understand... we consider anything that doesn't involve tater tots and cream of mushroom soup to be fine dining. Thankfully though, we have you here to tell us what is good and what is mediocre. Regarding Auriga, do you think it was stricktly the mediocre overpriced food that caused it to close? Or could other factors like say, the Guthrie relocation, have played any part in that at all?

Another question; what do you think of LBV, Solera and Cosmos? I used to pat myself on the back all the time while sitting there enjoying what I thought was pretty exceptional food. But now I'm not sure what to think. Please weigh in - I'm sure the masses want to know what Dan From Prestigious San Fran thinks!


Dan from San Fran,
You crack me up! You think Five was great but the 112 isn't? Maybe you're missing the concept. Do realize Alex at Alma is a James Beard nominee? You usually don't get nominated if you suck. I think you have Ron Burgundy syndrome. You're kind of a big deal. Get over yourself.

Back to Vegas and the VMAs. I notice that you state the SO was with you and you JUST HAPPEN not to mention the Britney underwear episode--are those two things related?

As for Dan, I am almost willing to bet, according to him, there would be no mediocre, overpriced plates in San Fran. One man's manna is another's bulls testicles [sorry AZ, but that episode really got to me]--Dan may not have enjoyed Saffron but that in no way means others did not or find the food high quality. Lets see, the terms "mediocre" "weak" among others are used-without casting doubt on the quality or professionalism of Saffron, I wonder if Dan's attitude made it into his food courtesy of some waitperson, chef, etc. Bet if he is like this here, he is a pill in public.

"Bland and overcooked" would be my response as well but I apply it to the 112. I had heard so many great things about them and was excited to eat there as my wife and I did for our anniversary in June. The service was fantastic! One of the best service experiences I can remember, our waitress knew when to be there and when not to be there, she was neither stuffy nor too casual. The food was another story. I ordered the ahi, most expensive item on the menu at the time, which was ok, it was the anniversary and for an evening price did not matter, and I was in the mood for some ahi. Four very small rubbery cubes of tuna arrived with what seemed to be a runny mayonaise drissled over the top, absolutely bland and uninspired. My wife had Halibut which was fine, certainly better than my entree,no complaint, just not inspirational in any way. I know I am just one experience on one evening, and I know the place is quite popular so people must be finding something there we did not, just have to say that I don't understand the hype surrounding the 112!

I like Saffron. I also like Brasa and will like it more when it is consistant and don't think it's all that pricey considering it costs about the same as take-out dinner from Surdyk's. I like Justin Timberlake and also wish Mtv showed more music videos.

A bit off topic here - while getting off the 98th St. exit in Bloomington, I noticed the building that housed Surabi (sp?) has been demolished. Any word on what happened here? I always enjoyed their food...

Hi Andrew, I am from Minnesota and I LOVE Bizzare Foods. My boyfriend and I are looking for some different places to go in the Twin Cites areas. Can you recommend some places for us to try! All types of food are welcome!

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