Talking to Uptown salon owner Jason Deavalon about his plans to open a blow dry bar at 50th & France, we got on the subject always sure to confuse, traumatize and excite salon patrons: tipping. Deavalon’s philosophy is the tip depends on your hair. So thicker mane, fatter tip. Also, your experience and service comes into play. But he believes you should land in the 15 to 20 percent range. Here’s the real kicker: that rule about not tipping a salon owner? Out the window. Deavalon says that rule made sense in traditional salons, where stylists were employees and a percentage of every service went to the salon owner. These days, stylists rent their chair at many salons–essentially making them mini-owners. And in Deavalon’s case, his salon is really more of a studio, and he’s the main attraction.

“So this means we should give you a tip?” I asked him. “You should,” he said.

And there you go.